Cucumber With Cumin Yogurt and Parsley

Blistered cucumbers with cumin yogurt. (EE Berger)

Cucumber With Cumin Yogurt and Parsley

I tend to use Greek yogurt for this because I like the thick texture. If using traditional yogurt, it will be easier to drizzle. Pick your poison. If your onion is making you tear up while cutting, give it a soak in cold water to wick away some of the bite. Then drain and carry on as you would.

Serves 4

• 3 unpeeled cucumbers (8 ounces), cut into thick irregular chunks
• 1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for frying
• 2 teaspoon cumin seed
• 1 cup yogurt
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning
• 1 small red onion or shallot (2 ounces, or 1/4 cup), thinly shaved
• 1 bunch parsley (2.4 ounces, or 1 1/2 cups), stemmed, leaves whole or roughly chopped

Lay out the cucumbers on paper towels, dabbing moisture away from the cut sides.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan until shimmering. Remove from the heat, add the cumin seed, and allow to bloom, about 3 minutes. When fragrant, scrape the cumin oil into the yogurt, add the salt, and stir to combine.

Heat the frying pan with an additional glug of oil until smoking. Sear the cucumbers (in batches if necessary) without crowding the pan, allowing enough space for the steam to evaporate.

Hold your nerve and let the skin blister and burn slightly (watch out for splatter). Flip to sear the other cut sides.

Remove from the pan and sprinkle with salt.

Toss the cucumber with the onion and parsley. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Dot with the cumin yogurt and serve.

Reprinted with permission from “Ruffage” by Abra Berens, copyright 2019. Published by Chronicle Books.

"Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables" by Abra Berens (Chronicle, $35).