I grabbed my last Tim Horton’s double-double, said goodbye to my comfortable bed and warm water in the bathroom, and together with my brother boarded the plane for Ukraine from Toronto. Dan and I landed in Kyiv early in the morning and the Ukrainian capital greeted us with warm sunny skies and a bustling airport.
Situated in the North, Kyiv is half way between the west and the east—polar opposites as far as the average Ukrainian is concerned. The western regions of Ukraine are known as the “real” Ukraine, home to the vast majority of Ukrainian-speaking Ukrainians. The east and most of the south are the Russian-speaking half, even though any Ukrainian can understand both languages. When I was growing up, I learned Russian from the popular comic TV series “Yeralash.”
We took the train to Ternopil, and noticed there is a relaxed air about everything people do there as we walked through the streets. The “grandmas” in the central bazaar—the largest marketplace in Ternopil—munch on sunflower seeds casually as they wait for customers.
City of Churches, Cathedrals, and Shrines
Ternopil is known throughout the country as the city of churches, cathedrals, and shrines. Various occupants in western Ukraine, like Turks and Poles, brought different styles of architecture that make each church a unique destination.
I remember most the Church of the Holy Spirit in my grandfather’s village of Rohatyn. Built in 1598 with massive oak girders and without a single nail, the church is a key character in a classic tale.
It was here that Tatar invaders kidnapped 15-year-old Roksolana during her wedding to a common villager.
