Tricks of the Taco Trade

A taco with braised oxtails, melted cheese tortillas, and a mysterious green sauce won a bet for “best tacos ever.”
Tricks of the Taco Trade
Mayo verde makes a delightful topping for tacos. Ari LeVaux
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We shook hands to make it official. If my tacos were the best ever, as claimed, I would win the wager. Otherwise, victory went to my adversary. It was admittedly the most audacious of claims, the longest of long shots. Out of how many hundreds of Mexican restaurants and taco trucks? She took a bite and stared at me, her eyes a smooth blend of “OMG” and “up your nose with a garden hose.”

If this confidence sounds like braggadocio, it wouldn’t be on my behalf. I did not invent that runny green sauce of cilantro, jalapeño, garlic, and lime that you may have noticed at your local taco stand. I don’t know where it came from or even its name; the recipes online refer to it with the same list of ingredients. I also did not invent the trick that probably won me the wager, which I learned from a friend in California.

Ari LeVaux
Ari LeVaux
Author
Ari LeVaux writes about food in Missoula, Mont.