Tasting Prague: Finding a Delicious City

From dumplings to delicacies in Czech's capital

A view of Prague Castle from Miru. (Courtesy of the Four Seasons)

In a city where unbelievable vistas are never hard to find, this one may be the very best. Sitting on a rooftop, awaiting dinner in a restaurant with just four tables, many of Prague’s greatest highlights were displayed before me. Not quite 360 degrees of beauty—but almost.

Just at our feet, the shining waters of the Vlatava River, the longest waterway in the country, whose magic, over the course of history, has inspired composers to write classical songs and symphonic poems. Ahead, the domes and spires of the Lesser Town. To the left, down below, was the stone span of the Charles Bridge, lined with statues, whose completion dates back to 1402. And up there, on the right, always the crowning feature of this famous, golden skyline, was the sprawling complex of the Prague Castle, staring down on everything from a rocky promontory.

A view of Prague Castle from Miru at the Four Seasons in Prague. (Courtesy of the Four Seasons)

But if the view was wonderful, the food was somehow even better. And as the sun beamed down, the dishes started to emerge from the kitchen. It was a feast that would last from the afternoon into the twinkling lights of a warm Czech evening.

A Taste of Czech Cuisine

I was atop the Four Seasons Prague, next to a Japanese garden, at Miru—which, appropriately enough, means “view” in Japanese. Nine courses were on the way. A special and unique dinner, for sure. But this was just one experience that demonstrated that, when it comes to dining, the Czech capital is full of very good surprises.

Over the centuries, the cuisine in this Central European country has traditionally been big and very hearty. Food that will take you through winters that can be long, dark, and scarce. Bread dumplings and steaming pork knuckle, covered in heavy gravy. Dishes that will fill you up. It isn’t bad, mind you—a few places in the city still do it very well. Including U Parlamentu, one of my favorites, which serves up all of the above, plus schnitzel, rabbit stew, and other regional specialties in a historic, wood-paneled space. (At peak times, people line up out the door for a taste of these classics.)

A dish of cabbage, dumplings, and pork. (Courtesy of Visit Czechia)

And of course, the Czechs are also famous for their pivo, drinking more beer per capita than any other country. They’ve been brewing since before the year 1000, and Pilsner, which you can find on tap in almost every bar on earth, was invented just a short drive southwest of Prague, in the Western Bohemian city of Pilsen. It is the home of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery—perhaps the most famous in the country—as well as a very good beer museum.

The gates of the famed Pilsner Urquell Brewery in Pilsen, Czech Republic. (Shutterstock)

And at the small Purkmistr brewery, just on the edge of town, I headed to their spa for a beer bath before digging into some excellent beer-based fare. A whole complex—there’s also an on-site hotel and bowling alley—their restaurant specializes in dishes made with a splash of their own microbrew. I dig into a steaming bowl of sauerkraut soup, and then a heaping plate of goulash. Paired with a frosty mug of the good stuff, brewed just downstairs and piped directly from the tanks to the taps right near my table.

Prague’s Absinthe Allure

Back in Prague, the tasting tour continued. In a small bar just off Old Town Square, with its medieval spires and astronomical clock, I tried absinthe. Invented in the Swiss and French Alps as a medical tonic, most European countries had banned it by the time of the First World War, believing the spirit to be dangerous, causing hallucinations and even insanity.

While its production persisted longer here, with the rise of communism in Czechoslovakia, absinthe production ceased. Nationalized distilleries stopped making it. But after the Velvet Revolution in 1989, it quickly returned in its Bohemian form, usually spelled without the silent “e” (absinth) an altered descendent of the original. Behind that little bar, a bartender performed the “ritual,” pouring the liquid over a spoon filled with sugar cubes, setting it aflame.

In the ensuing days, walking around on the cobblestones, I tried everything from sweet treats like chimney cakes to some of the best Argentinian-style steaks I’ve ever had. I browsed local farmer’s markets for fresh produce and really good street food (like homemade sausages). Gourmet burgers abound here, too, served saucy with a steak knife jabbed through the middle.

But nothing quite matched that Japanese meal I had at Miru. A friend explained that the restaurant was the brainchild of the hotel’s former executive chef, Leonardo Di Clemente, who lived and worked for five years in Tokyo. “He just fell in love with Japanese culture and food,” she said.

One of the dishes at Miru at the Four Seasons in Prague. (Courtesy of the Four Seasons)

The courses kept coming, beautiful and delicate, perfectly arranged on the plate. And delicious, of course. Tuna tataki with crunchy leeks. King crab over crispy rice. Usuzukuri sea bream, with a truffle ponzu sauce. Lovely morsels, each one a little self-contained adventure.

The meal lasted for hours, and when the last wine was poured, the sun had set and it was night. Floodlights bathed Prague Castle, and tourists still teemed across the Charles Bridge. Small boats plied the now-dark waters of the Vlatava. And the end of this delicious day only led to a bit of contemplation. And the question: What will I eat tomorrow?

When You Go

Fly: Vaclav Havel Airport (PRG) is relatively small and quite easy to navigate. Most flights originate in European and Asian hub cities, although Delta does fly a seasonal nonstop from JFK in New York.

Getting Around: Public transportation in Prague is inexpensive, safe, and efficient, with a metro system plus buses and trams that reach into most corners of the city. And if you finish up a late meal and don’t feel like hopping on transit, ride-sharing services are easily available and quite cheap.

Stay: Set next to the Vltava right in the middle of Old Town, the Four Seasons Prague is just steps from some of the city’s best restaurants. Rooms are cushy, comfortable, and elegant, many with chandeliers and hand-stenciled walls (and amazing views), spread out between Renaissance, Classical, and Baroque wings. Service is extraordinary—just imagine something, it seems, and it’s already done. And it is also one of the city’s best places for a meal—in addition to Miru, the hotel is home to modern Italian cuisine (made with local ingredients) at Cottocrudo.

Take Note: You don’t need to go upscale for a great plate of food here. Small pubs often serve inexpensive, hearty, and often very good food. For example: Hany Bany, a local favorite founded by three Czech friends, a steaming plate of dumplings filled with smoked meat and cabbage will set you back just 175 crowns (about eight dollars). Add a cold pint of beer for another 30 (less than 1.50 USD).