Steak Fries Are the Worst, but These Fat Fries Will Make You a Believer

Here are some of the best fries available in Los Angeles.

The Apennine fries from Rossoblu restaurant in downtown Los Angeles are cooked three times and garnished with fried herbs and balsamic vinegar. Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times/TNS

By Jenn Harris Los Angeles Times

LOS ANGELES—I will never understand the allure of the fat French fry. Steak fries are contemptible. Wedges of bland starch with no crunch, like a mouthful of molded mashed potatoes. There is no amount of ketchup, ranch, or aioli that can save thick fries from the lower depths of tuber hell. Just order a baked potato and be done with it.