Split, Croatia: Modern Life in the Hallways of Diocletian

Split is Croatia’s second-largest city making it a bustling metropolis and a top sightseeing destination.
Split, Croatia: Modern Life in the Hallways of Diocletian
The main square in Split, Croatia, was once the vestibule of Diocletian's grand Roman palace. Addie Mannan, Rick Steves' Europe
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While most of Croatia’s coastal towns seem tailor-made for tourism, Split is real and vibrant. Lounging alongside the Adriatic Sea on the famed Dalmatian Coast, Split is Croatia’s second-largest city (after capital Zagreb), making it a bustling metropolis, serious port city, major transit hub, and top sightseeing destination, all rolled into one.

Split has all the trappings of a modern city. But a close look at the surviving facade of the Roman palace fronting its harbor reveals its ancient roots. In the fourth century AD, when the Roman emperor Diocletian retired, he built a vast residence for his golden years here in his native Dalmatia. When Rome fell, the palace was abandoned. Eventually, a medieval town sprouted from its abandoned shell. And, to this day, the maze of narrow alleys—literally Diocletian’s hallways at one point in time—makes up the core of Split. Today’s residents are actually living in a Roman emperor’s palace.

Rick Steves
Rick Steves
Author
Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio, and organizes European tours. This article was adapted from his new book, For the Love of Europe. You can email Rick at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook. ©2022 Rick Steves. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.