It’s sunset, and I’m at the place to be in Granada—the breathtaking San Nicolás viewpoint overlooking the fortress of the Alhambra. Here, at the edge of the city’s exotic Moorish quarter, lovers, widows, and tourists jostle for the best view of the hill-capping, floodlit fortress, the last stronghold of the Moorish kingdom in Spain. For more than 700 years, Spain, the most Catholic of countries, lived under Muslim rule, until the Christians retook the land in 1492.
Today, Granada is a delightful mix of both its Muslim and Christian past. It has a Deep South feel—a relaxed vibe that seems typical of once powerful places now past their prime. In the cool of the early evening, the community comes out and celebrates life on stately yet inviting plazas. Dogs wag their tails to the rhythm of modern hippies and street musicians.
