Few cities can even come close to Paris when it comes to cultural, artistic, and historic heritage. And few residents are as confident as Parisians in their expertise in good living. While that uniquely French joie de vivre can be enjoyed throughout the year, I’d like to talk about Paris in the summer.
An old travel mantra tells you to avoid Paris in summer, when its citizens traditionally go on vacation. Sure, it’s hard to get a dentist or find an accountant at work. But, to be honest, it’s the tourists’ Paris that the tourist is looking for … and the Paris I’m after is in full swing in July and August.
During the summer, the Seine River, which has replaced the busy arterials that once lined its banks with a green and inviting riverside park, is filled with life. Landscaped promenades, tailor-made for strolling and biking, rather than traffic jams, now line the riverbanks. I love spending a balmy summer night just downstream from Notre-Dame, where there’s an engaging people zone with an open-air art gallery, music, and salsa dancing.
Parisians have the habit of spilling onto the river’s bridges and embankments to enjoy the early evening hours. It’s the perfect time to share a simple picnic with friends. Join in—for the cost of groceries and a bottle of wine, you can enjoy a gourmet spread with ambience that no restaurant can touch.
If you’d rather toss a Frisbee than ponder the river’s reflections, head to the one-mile stretch of the Right Bank (just north of Ile de la Cité) where the city government trucks in potted palm trees, hammocks, and lounge chairs to create colorful urban “beaches” from mid-July through mid-August. With climbing walls, “beach” cafés, stylish swimsuits on parade, volleyball courts, and trampolines, it’s an ideal place to see Paris at play—and to play with Paris.
If you enjoy the Fourth of July in the US, you’ll love Bastille Day in France—which is ten days later. July 14, the country’s national holiday, is celebrated in towns big and small all over France. And Paris goes all out: There’s a big parade down the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, concerts galore, and fireworks lighting up the sky over the Eiffel Tower. Later in July, the hugely popular Tour de France bike race culminates in the center of Paris.
Summer also means sightseeing and art after dark: Some museums and sights—such as the Eiffel Tower—keep longer hours, and others host special summer-only events. In nearby Versailles, summer Saturday nights offer a cool array of gushing fountains, lighted displays, and fireworks. King Louis XIV had his engineers literally reroute a river to fuel his fountains and feed his plants. Even by today’s standards, the fountains are impressive.
Sure, summer in Paris requires patience and flexibility. It’s peak tourist season, and it’s hot. City buses can be like rolling greenhouses. If you neglect to make advance reservations, you’ll swelter in lines at the Eiffel Tower or Louvre. But for the thoughtful and well-prepared traveler, summer in Paris can be a fine time to enjoy such a great city so in love with life and expert at enjoying it.
