One of Ireland’s most popular destinations is the Iveragh Peninsula—known to shamrock lovers everywhere as the “Ring of Kerry.” The Ring, lassoed by a winding coastal road through a mountainous, lake-splattered region, is undeniably scenic. Visitors since Victorian times have been drawn to this evocative chunk of the Emerald Isle, where mysterious ancient ring forts stand sentinel on mossy hillsides.
It seems like every tour bus in Ireland makes the ritual loop around the Ring, using the bustling and famous tourist town of Killarney as a springboard. I skip Killarney, whose main attraction is its transit connections for those without cars. (Don’t confuse this overcommercialized town with the scenic and worthwhile Killarney National Park, nearby.) Instead, rent a car and use as your home base the tidy town of Kenmare (it’s actually won Ireland’s “Tidy Town” award).