Rick Steves’ Europe: Bucharest’s Lively Old Town—and Eerie Palace

In recent years, Bucharest’s citizens have rejuvenated the once-derelict Old Town.

Built by communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, Bucharest’s Palace of the Parliament is Europe’s biggest building—and it’s 70 percent vacant. Rick Steves, Rick Steves’ Europe

Still haunted by the legend of a vampire count and the legacy of a communist dictator, Romania is complex—with an epic history, a multifaceted ethnic mix, and an unusually rich cultural heritage. It may not be the easiest place to travel, but for adventurous souls, it’s exceptionally rewarding.

If you go, start in Romania’s capital, Bucharest. With about two million people, it’s a muscular and gritty tangle of buildings. It can be hard to like at first glance, but with a thoughtful look, it reveals its charms. Between the dreary apartment blocks hides an impressive architectural heritage.