Sunshine on our skin is said to increase serotonin, a neurotransmitter that naturally boosts our mood. As America experiences sub-zero temperatures, Puerto Rico may provide that much-needed break from the ice and snow.
A U.S. territory located around 1,000 miles southeast of Florida, it is also a popular port-of-call for cruise ships, as it is sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean to the north and the Caribbean Sea to the south. Its name means “rich port” for good reason. By air, most major cities’ airports offer direct flights to Puerto Rico’s Luis Muñoz Marin Airport, just three miles southeast of the capital, San Juan. Americans need not show a passport nor a visa to enter Puerto Rico, making it one of the more convenient places to visit. If you are making plans to travel to the commonwealth, here are some places worth visiting in the northern part of the territory.
Historic San Juan
Once you hit the sun-kissed San Juan soil, you will want to hit the ground running, as there are many places to see and visit.As the third-oldest capital established by Europeans in the Americas, Old San Juan (Viejo San Juan) is rich and vibrant in its colorful buildings and cobblestone streets. According to Fodor’s travel guide, “more than 400 buildings have been beautifully restored,” and these buildings now house shops, art galleries, and open-air cafés, and an unhurried stroll through its streets will delight the senses. Walk along the tree-lined promenade called “Paseo de la Princesa,” a San Juan Historic Site dating back to 1853, where you can enjoy relaxing water vistas and enjoy the mists from the Raíces (or “Roots”) Fountain built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the New World, celebrating the Taino, African, and Spanish heritage of Puerto Ricans.
Remnants of its colonial past abound, as seen in the classical architecture of the Santa Catalina Palace (also called La Fortaleza or “The Fortress”), the official residence of the governor since the 16th century. It was initially constructed as part of the island’s defenses, but it was later converted for the governor’s full-time use.
Just a mile away is the imposing fortress Castillo San Felipe del Morro (or simply El Morro), strategically positioned on the northwestern-most part of Old San Juan, whose daunting façade is sure to strike fear in the hearts of approaching enemy ships. Construction on the El Morro started in 1539 by the Spaniards, and it took over 200 years to complete. Since then, it has withstood almost every naval attack against it; even Sir Francis Drake tried but couldn’t breach El Morro’s defenses. Up to World War II, this fort was used by the United States to track German submarines in the area. Exhibits and informative videos will help visitors piece together the history of this popular tourist destination in Puerto Rico.
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Plazas and Parks
As you continue to explore Old San Juan, you will stumble upon plazas and parks. The most famous one is the Plaza de Armas, the city’s main square, which has been the venue for military parades as well as a gathering place for locals and vendors. On this plaza, you will find fountains and statues of famous locals, as well as the Casa Alcaldía, San Juan’s city hall, which boasts a late Renaissance architectural style, built in the likeness of Madrid’s city hall.Another popular plaza is Plaza Colón. This is usually the starting point for sightseeing tours, as it is closest to the port of San Juan, where cruise ships dock. If traveling by land, it is right at the entrance of the old walled city. The center of the plaza boasts a marble monument to Christopher Columbus, which was erected to mark the 400th anniversary of Spanish arrival. Across from the plaza is the historic Antiguo Casino, one of the territory’s most beautiful buildings. With its 1917 Beaux Arts architecture, it is a popular venue for weddings and social events.
One With Nature
The tropical weather means there are plenty of ecosystems that thrive in this climate.On the other side of the island, to the east, is the only tropical rainforest in the United States Forest Service. El Yunque (pronounced joong-keh) National Forest sits on top of the Luqillo Mountain Range, and although it is one of the smaller forests by acreage, it is big on biodiversity. Along the paths of the many hiking trails, you may come across lizards and colorful parrots. Keep an eye out for the coqui, tiny native frogs that are considered Puerto Rico’s unofficial mascot. If you’ve never seen (or even heard of) breadfruit before, this is your chance to see one up close and personal.
While visitors (and locals) await the reopening of the popular La Mina trail, which leads to La Mina Falls, this year, visitors can still be content to take photos at the La Coca Falls, which are visible as soon as you enter the forest entrance. You may also opt to go up a little further to the Juan Diego Creek, a natural pool that is also fed by a waterfall. Wading is allowed here.
Nighttime nature watching is just as fun and interesting. If you’re up for kayaking at night, take a ride out to one of three bioluminescent bays found in Puerto Rico. Laguna Grande in Fajardo, on the northeastern part of Puerto Rico, is the most visited, as it is one of the few year-round bioluminescent bays in the world. Teeming with microscopic planktons that light up when disturbed, the dancing lights on the shallow lagoon make for a magical experience. No kayaking experience is necessary for this outing.
Naturally, one of the more obvious reasons for visiting a tropical paradise in the dead of winter is to hit the beach. The warm sun on skin will help thaw the remaining ice still in your veins. With almost 300 public beaches, there are a lot to choose from. On the northeastern shore of San Juan, Playa Aviones is a local favorite. With palm trees swaying in the breeze and warm waters and waves, it is a favorite for swimmers, surfers, and water sports enthusiasts. If you prefer a less crowded beach, take a water taxi (book at least a day in advance) past the bioluminescent bay in Fajardo to the island of Icacos. Its crystal-clear waters make for good snorkeling and marine life viewing.
If you want to get away from the sun for a little bit, from Old San Juan, head west to view the Río Camuy caves. These are part of an underground network of limestone caves carved out by a subterranean waterway, which is the third-largest underground river in the Western Hemisphere. Catch haunting cave formations, the river where it derived its name, as well as the occasional bat. Reservations are required to tour the caverns.
Food Scene
All that swimming and hiking will help build up one’s appetite. Here are a few places that serve up delicious local food:Raíces Restaurant is located in Old San Juan. Try the massive, nearly two-pound pork chop dish glazed in passion fruit called chuleta kan kan. If you prefer leaner options, the skirt steak-stuffed mofongo is currently on the menu. Mofongo is a traditional Puerto Rican plantain-based dish.
Foodies who follow “Man vs. Food” on the Food Network or Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” will want to catch the El Churry food truck. An order of the “mixto” sandwich is comprised of local semi-sweet bread with two kinds of protein (skirt steak or churrasco and chicken) doused in a ketchup-and-mayonnaise sauce, while a “tripleta” consists of three meats. Meals are served with a side of potato sticks—as seen on TV and just as good.
Lechón, or whole roasted pig, is the specialty of Guavate, a town 30 miles south of Old San Juan. The meat is juicy (no extra sauce needed) and the skin is thin and crispy. It is worth the rental car expense to get there.
Cheap eats can be had at roadside eateries. Try some skewered pork, sorullos (fried corn fritters), and tamarind juice. And don’t forget to partake of some helados (ice cream) and piragua (shaved ice with fruit-flavored syrup) from the food carts.
To wash off all the food, join Casa Bacardí’s rum factory tour and enjoy a welcome drink as well as an informative tour of its history and its production.
After a healthy dose of vitamin D and tummies full from the diverse culinary experience, it’s time to head back home to face reality. But for one moment, memories of Puerto Rico will keep us warm in our thoughts as we await the end of winter.
