It was once a renowned redoubt, built almost five centuries ago to protect Spanish assets in the New World. Rising on a steep promontory next to the water, this registered historic site is still formidable. Walls and turrets overlook San Juan Bay, with the fort’s cannons still fixed and ready to fire on an enemy target that may just sail by, at any time, down below.
Approaching it on foot from the old town, along a long, sloping path that cuts through a rolling patch of green, I could still feel its power.
Named for the Spanish King Philip II, Castillo San Felipe del Morro—always known locally as just El Morro—now welcomes some 2 million visitors every year. It’s a rare and special place where Old World designs are fixed on U.S. soil. The walls of this citadel have been attacked by many estimable forces, including the English, the Dutch, and the American navy—and they once repelled the renowned and infamous privateer Sir Francis Drake.
The Island of ‘Rich Port’
Home to more than 3 million people, Puerto Rico has been shaped by the many cultures that have sailed across the Atlantic. Officially an unincorporated territory of the United States, there’s no place quite like it. I was here for a brief visit—just one day, two nights—but was determined to find as much history and culture here in that brief span of time as possible.
Every visit should begin with a walk around Viejo San Juan, the original walled city. Set on a small, separate islet from the rest of the big city, the city dates back to the 16th century, and it remained largely a military town until the 19th century. Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance architecture combine to make this the most complete Spanish city center in the United States. Colorful facades brighten the tight rows of old buildings.
A stroll will take you on grooved, cobblestone streets. Squint a bit, and you might think you’re in Barcelona or Madrid. The roadways slope from a frothy seashore in the north, down to a calm harbor. In the daytime, street musicians and magicians play to guests off cruise ships. At night, the small balconies crowd with revelers enjoying music and dance, giving some blocks a Mardi Gras feel.
After a late arrival and a good sleep at a great seaside hotel, I made my way from the walls of El Morro to the flowing fountains at Plaza Colón. This is the beating heart of the old city, surrounded by San Juan’s oldest theater; the city’s other major fortress, Castillo San Cristóbal; and, just nearby, Puerto Rico’s capitol building.
Traveling solo, I tarried a bit and overheard a tour guide telling his group about the strategic importance of this island.
America in the Caribbean
With a single stroke, the Treaty of Paris ended the brief Spanish American War in 1898. It extinguished Spanish rule and awarded Puerto Rico—along with the Philippines, Guam, and Cuba—to the United States. Lawmakers in Washington quickly instituted a civil government and, in 1917, conferred U.S. citizenship on Puerto Ricans.
Officially a commonwealth, its people have voted in several referenda on whether to become a state or, on the other hand, create their own separate country. Today, the territory’s status sits in a bit of a limbo. However, it is definitely part of the United States—there’s no passport check on domestic arrivals from the U.S. mainland. And driving out from the airport, the highway and many of the roadside shops and restaurants feel very American, though the surroundings and sultry breezes remain very Caribbean.
At Plaza Colón, sweating more than a little in the afternoon heat, I ducked past a man offering people the chance to place a parrot on your shoulder for an unforgettable, if slightly cheesy, photo. Just around the corner, I found a lovely small museum with—I was very happy to realize—really excellent air conditioning.
Inside the Museo del Mar, the displays run from the quirky to the divine. Items salvaged from the Titanic and her sister ship, the Olympic. A telegraph, bell, and other large pieces of equipment from the USS San Juan. And my favorite: the world’s largest collection of life rings—certified by the Guinness Book of World Records—100 of them, a forest of orange at the back of the museum.
Each is emblazoned with the name of the ship, and some have plaques to tell their stories. Curators gathered many from cruise ships, but some have an even more interesting tale to tell, including a ring that was on board a replica of Columbus’s ship, the Santa Maria. Another came from the Grozny, a tanker that tried to penetrate the American naval blockade during the Cuban Missile Crisis.
After a siesta, I returned to the streets of Old San Juan in the warm evening. Meandering, the music boomed loud from several busy nightclubs. But it wasn’t the vibe I was seeking.
Ushered to a small table inside the Cannon Club, it was like I had entered a whole other world. Gardens and pools and statues and artwork, with the main building filled with the sounds of dueling grand pianos. The owner, Jan, stopped by my table for a brief chat.
What was this building, before you turned it into a restaurant and bar? “A ruin,” she replied with a smile, noting they purchased it back in 1961. “Painting, culture, music, history—we’ve got it all,” she added, tracing a crack in the wall with her finger. “See this crack? That’s just more history.”
