Morels With Calvados
Morels and apples seem made for each other and, in fact, they are—the best place to track the mushrooms down is in abandoned apple orchards. Each spring, I make this recipe with the first morels that come in. The voluptuous flavor of the morels snaps to attention when bathed in apple brandy. Try to ignore the cholesterol factor, for the cream adds a vital, velvety note. You can also serve it as a side dish for chops or a steak, or turn it into a hearty meal tumbled over fresh fettuccine.Selecting and storing morels: Look for dry, unbroken specimens. The aroma should be of freshly turned soil. White streaks usually mean mold. Place morels in a shallow woven basket loosely covered with paper towels. Store on a wire shelf in the refrigerator for up to one week. When morels go out of season, use dried ones, calculating about one ounce of dried for four ounces fresh.
