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Spiced kelp mole at Noma LA—served with agave shoots, squash blossom and other local flowers, leaves, and vegetables for dipping—came with tortillas made from masa supplied by local molino Komal. Myung J. Chun/Los Angeles Times/TNS
LOS ANGELES—“Didn’t the roe taste like Fritos?” asked Ryan Phang. The 24-year-old student next to me considered a leaf piled with spot prawn roe, like tiny orange pearls. We chewed on the sea eggs from off the coast of California, and I searched for any note of Fritos chips.