Hy Vong’s Spring Rolls (Cha Gio) With Nuoc Cham

"Mango and Peppercorns," a new part-memoir, part-cookbook from the women behind Hy Vong in Miami. Courtesy of Chronicle Books

Frying the spring rolls twice results in the crispiest wrapper and also allows you to make the rolls in advance and fry them in batches, as Tung Nguyen did at Hy Vong. For the bean thread noodles, she recommends Pagoda Lungkow Vermicelli.

Makes about 26 spring rolls

• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 3/4 ounce dried bean thread noodles (see headnote), soaked in hot tap water for 7 minutes, drained, and chopped into 1-inch lengths
• 1 1/2 ounce dried wood ear mushrooms (also known as Chinese black fungus; about 1 1/4 cups), soaked in water for 12 to 24 hours at room temperature, drained, and finely chopped in a food processor
• 1/2 small sweet onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon Accent Flavor Enhancer (optional)
• 26 dried circular spring roll wrappers, 8 1/2 inches in diameter
• Vegetable oil, for frying
• Leaves from about 2 heads red leaf lettuce
• About 15 mint sprigs
• 2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
• 1 cucumber, thinly sliced
• About 3 cups nuoc cham (recipe follows), for serving

In a large bowl, combine the pork, noodles, mushrooms, onion, fish sauce, salt, pepper, and Accent (if using). Mix the filling thoroughly with your hands.