The first thing that impressed my wife, Fyllis, and me about the area of Scotland that we were visiting was its natural beauty. Both the Highlands and central Scotland are home to craggy mountains, rolling farmlands dotted by grazing sheep, and the still waters of lochs (lakes).
We agreed with a poll conducted by Rough Travel Guides of its readers, who included Scotland among the “most beautiful countries in the world.” Contrasting with that tranquil beauty, however, is a history that is replete with battles against a parade of invaders and tyrants. During pauses among those clashes, high-spirited Scottish warriors at times took to fighting among themselves.
Some chapters of that history come alive at the countless castles that dot the landscape—some of which were built well before Columbus set sail for the New World—and charming towns, each with its own unique stories to relate.
Stirling Castle is located in a city of the same name that’s known as the “Gateway to the Highlands.” Its oldest structures date back to the 14th century, and the Royal Palace looks much as it did when it was completed in the 16th century. One ceiling is adorned with original wood-carved medallions that depict images of kings, queens, and other notables.
Doune Castle traces its history to the 13th century. If its quintessential fortress-like façade looks familiar, that’s because it appeared in the film “Monty Python and the Holy Grail” and, more recently, in the “Outlander” TV series. The past also lives in cities and towns, including even the tiniest hamlets that make up in allure what they lack in size.
Inverness sits astride the Ness River, the source of which is the loch where the famous fabled monster is said to reside. This is a welcoming walking town with numerous inviting cozy restaurants and small shops. A personal favorite was the Victorian Market, which retains much of its original ornate splendor from 1891. Historic photographs line the walls, and independent purveyors—a butcher, fishmonger, watchmaker, and some 30 others—add to the ambience.
Dunblane stands on the banks of the River Allan, which in the past powered factories and mills. Exhibits at the compact but outstanding Dunblane Museum trace the area’s history. I found especially fascinating a collection of beggars’ badges, which, in the 15th century, identified indigent people who had permission to plead for money.
The pleasant Darn Walk trail alongside the river links Dunblane with the Bridge of Allan, a 19th-century spa town that traces its history back to a hillside fortress built during the Iron Age.
Contrasting with towns that are small in size but large in appeal is Edinburgh, a magnificent city that in many ways is much more than just a pretty face. The Old Town area earns its accolade as “the heart of Scotland’s capital.” Stretching a mile through the city center, its stunning architecture serves as backdrop for an active street life. Entertainers attract crowds of passersby, and street musicians add background music to the setting.
Edinburgh Castle overlooks the Royal Mile, as it’s known, from a hilltop that has served as a defensive fortress since ancient Roman times. At the opposite end of the road is the Palace of Holyrood, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. King Charles III spends one week in residence each summer but wasn’t there when we were, so we couldn’t drop by for tea.
Another favorite site for us was Real Mary King’s Close, a narrow underground thoroughfare that provides a realistic immersion into the past. In the mid-17th century, Edinburgh was confined primarily within its security walls, and housing was built in small thoroughfares called closes, a Scottish word for alley.
These often were named for an occupant or the business or trade of residents, which accounts for signs identifying the Advocates, Bake House, and Old Fish Market closes. Real Mary King’s Close is named for a merchant who lived there for a decade (1635–1645) along with about 600 other people. A tour delved into Mary’s life, the lives of people from all social classes, and horror tales about Edinburgh’s most deadly plague.
Another very different site that I suggest should be on any visitor’s itinerary is the Trossachs, an area of heavily wooded hills, yawning valleys, and rocky peaks. This landscape in many ways represents a microcosm of Highlands scenery.
While our visit was limited to a self-driving tour and hike, other available activities include animal- and birdwatching, fishing, and enjoying a boat ride on a loch. History lovers can check out prehistoric sites that include rock markings, burnt mounds, and artificial islands once occupied by lake dwellings.
