The 505-mile Rhône River was used by Greek and Roman traders, so today’s river cruisers can experience antiquity, artistry, history, and some of the finest food and wine in Europe. Beginning in Beaune and ending in Avignon, I decided to experience the region by boat and to discover a waterway that has evolved from ancient trading to contemporary travelling.
Uniworld’s S.S. Catherine is a 159-passenger boutique riverboat with five-star hotel amenities. Even so, it was a surprise to find two butlers serving guests in the boat’s six suites. My stateroom with a veranda was the height of elegance. If a butler were added to my journey, I would need to research what butlers do aside from packing and unpacking. Even without a butler, service was immediate, impeccable, and anticipatory. How did the maid know I longed for a pot of herb tea on my veranda after touring Beaune with a cold?
Beaune is a walled city with half of the ramparts and battlements intact. Roman ruins lie all around town, but I was most interested in the insight into medieval medical care offered by Hotel-Dieu, a former hospital. Although their methods may have shortened life rather than extended it, Hotel-Dieu was a beautiful and comfortable place to die. The nuns were lavish with physical comforts, and extravagant religious art offered solace for souls ready to move into the next life.
