Life in the Italian town of Castelrotto goes on almost entirely in German; in fact, fewer than 5 percent of Castelrotto’s residents are native Italian speakers. Its German-speaking residents call home “Kastelruth.” Tucked away in the Dolomites, the Alps of northern Italy, it’s my favorite hideaway in the Italian “South Tirol.” This region offers Italy a strong dash of German culture.
Castelrotto is the ideal home base for exploring the Dolomites—Italy’s ski country, and hiking wonderland in summer. Though this town was built for farmers, not vacationers, it has good bus connections, fine and friendly hotels, and more village character than any town around. With its traffic-free center, a thousand years of history, an oversized and hyperactive bell tower, and traditionally clad locals, it seems of another world. My chalet—sturdy as a bomb shelter, yet warmly woody—comes with a generously fluffy down comforter and serious plumbing.