Alentejo: Land of Cork, Clay, and Cowbells

To visit the Alentejo, Portugal’s largest but least developed region, is to travel back in time.
Alentejo: Land of Cork, Clay, and Cowbells
Maria Inácia Fonseca working in her atelier. Wibke Carter
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ESTREMOZ, Portugal—At first glance, the middle-aged woman with the glasses and grayish hair is just wrapping little clay balls the size of marbles. But within seconds, a head, legs, arms, and then a fully developed figure appear. Together with her sister and nephew, Maria Inácia Fonseca runs the craft studio Irmãs Flores in the small town of Estremoz in Portugal’s Alentejo region. They are three of only  10 people who uphold a tradition that dates back to the 17th century.
Day in and day out, they create small works of art depicting natural elements, local trades and events, popular traditions, and devotions. “I started when I was 13 years old,” Fonseca said. “Since UNESCO inscribed our Estremoz clay figures on the cultural heritage list, we’ve become even busier, though we still only have the same number of hands. I’m ready to retire, but who will continue this work?”

Traveling Back in Time

The clay figures of Estremoz are not the only example of the country’s endangered craftsmanship, but the Alentejo region might just be the best place to protect them. Travelers who skip the much more famous beaches of the Algarve or the wine temptations of the Douro will journey past wheatfields, wildflower meadows, sleepy white-washed villages, majestic medieval cities, and endless cork oak forests. To visit the Alentejo, Portugal’s largest but least developed region, is to travel back in time.
Wibke Carter
Wibke Carter
Author
Wibke Carter is a travel writer who hails from Germany. She has lived in New Zealand and New York, and presently enjoys life in London. Her website is WibkeCarter.com.
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