Representing the riches of Italy’s centuries-old viniculture, the vineyards of the Duana in the north to the Apulia region in the south produce some of Italy’s most treasured wines. The sunny, warm, ancient earth and stones of this landscape act as a pastoral backdrop for the skills of the area’s winemakers.
Every vineyard has its unique character and story, each steeped in tradition and history. Most of the grapes arrived in the area from Greece, as the names would suggest: Greco, Moscato, Malvesia Bianca, and Aglianico. Nero di Troya is from Asia Minor.
Primitivo was introduced by Benedectine monks and blended with indigenous grapes such as Fiano and Moltepaciano. While Apulian wines scaled back their production for mostly local consumption, the Italian Ministry of Food, Agriculture, and Forestry is stepping up efforts to reintroduce this exquisite treasure-trove to the world by increasing production while maintaining quality.
Each of these grape types has its personality. Greco is a very compact, medium- to small-clustered variety with a delicate bouquet, which can be an excellent dessert wine.
Malvasia Bianca, also Greek, with large, long clusters produces a wine with a crispy and clean aftertaste. Nero di Troya has fairly compact, medium-sized clusters, which produce a deep red, with a hint of purple.
Promo Puglia recently showcased four of the best Puglian vineyards representing some of the most important regional productions of the area. Some have a history that date back to 2,500 B.C.
There is a saying: “Shake the hands of the farmer.” I spoke with the winemakers.
Cantine Bortromango is owned by the D’Agostino family. The two brothers Beniamino and Albero D’Agostino have worked hard to use new technology while maintaining quality. They have produced wines that have won the hearts of many fans worldwide.
The Cantine Botromagno vineyard is located in the central part of Puglia. According to Beniamino D’Agostino, the vineyard was known as “the Other Puglia” or the “Garden of Delights” by Frederick II of Swabia, which he made it his residence.
Benjamin said that their winery “is unique because we produce mainly white wines.” Their flagship wine is Gravina, an appellation wine, a DOP wine, a blend of 60 percent Greco grapes and 40 percent white Malvasia. This white wine is very, very crispy, fresh, and very minerally.
“The reason for this unique combination in this part of Italy, Puglia is where people expect a lot of hot weather and very strong wines. Our area is the only hilly area with streams and rolling hills at high altitude, so we tend to focus on white wines. The Gravina white is very fresh, very fruity. … [its aroma] is very floral, especially [of] wild flowers and it is very long and smooth in the mouth with a hint of mineral and is very savory too.”
“This wine is one of the oldest appellation wine of Puglia and traces back to the fourth century B.C. We use only stainless steel and brief fermentation of 15 to 20 days at controlled temperatures. Usually it is bottled in February of each year and released to the market after two or three months.”
They also produce very good red wines. The white wine goes very well with a wide range of seafood, including oysters and spicy food and with Indian and Japanese cuisine. Because of its acidity and mineral quality, it can perfectly clean the palate, even after spicy food. The retail cost is about $12 per bottle. It is sold in New York and throughout the United States.
Antonio Gargano, president and chairman of the board of the Casaltrinita Winery told me that they produce Nero di Troya wines, one of them called Coppamalva, a blend of cabernet and Nero di Troya.
This wine is fermented in steel five months before it is sold, while Casaltrinita is made with 100 percent Nero di Troya’s aging process of five months in barrels and five months in bottles before it is sold.
Casaltrinita has an aroma of liguorice, vanilla, toasted bread, and dry fruit. It goes well with chicken and meat. Coppamalva has an aroma of small, dry fruit with a hint of black pepper. It is a blend of 70 percent Nero di Troya and 30 percent cabernet. Both are sold in Canada, Michigan, and Texas, and they will be coming to New York in June. Both are priced at about $20 per bottle.
