Time was ticking as the hot desert sun beat a hasty retreat toward the horizon. Already rusty, the sand and stones all around me seemed to glow in the soft, golden, late-day light. It was an otherworldly, strangely beautiful scene. But it was starting to look a little doubtful that I would find any dinosaurs at all.
Earlier in the week, I’d landed at a tiny airstrip and loaded into a Land Cruiser that immediately took the route off-road. As it left a long tail of dust behind us, I looked over at the dunes and wondered whether any leopards lurked behind them. Probably not.