ORLANDO, Fla.—If Hontoon Island’s tall pines and broad oaks could speak, they would have stories to tell of homesteaders and explorers who ventured to the island and made their homes along the St. Johns River centuries ago.
But there were human habitants in this area far before those homesteaders and Spanish conquistadors ever set foot on the island, which sits a few miles downriver from Blue Spring State Park in what we now know as Volusia County. Research indicates that the Mayaca people lived in the area for more than 12,000 years before anyone else arrived.
Exploring Hontoon Island State Park on a quiet weekday morning, hiking to the island’s large shell midden still laden with fragments of pottery and wood carvings, felt like stepping back in time.
Other than a park ranger, it seemed I was the only human visitor that sunny morning, which makes sense because the island has been harder to access in the past year and a half.
Although Hontoon Island has run a free electric ferry to the park in the past, Hurricane Ian caused the service, along with overnight stays at the campground and cabins, to be suspended. The island experienced flooding from all sides due to its location on the St. Johns River. According to the ranger, the park hopes to restore ferry service by mid-summer when the visitor center and more amenities are available again.
In the meantime, it’s possible to reach the island by private boat or paddling across the river, which I opted to do. Then, I embarked on a nearly 4-mile round trip, which took me through a shady palm and oak hammock to the Indian shell mound, where I tread carefully and quietly out of respect for the people who came before.
My ears perked up at the distinctive call of a red-bellied woodpecker before I spotted it up high on a tree. Not long after, I encountered a pair of sandhill cranes picking at insects in a muddy section of the path. After taking a short spur trail that yielded a view of Snake Creek, it was time to head back on a stretch of trail through pine flatwoods, which passed by the currently closed campground and finally back to the front entrance of the island.
As I was readying my paddleboard for the very short journey back across the river, I spotted a manatee tail emerging from the water, making for a picture-perfect ending to my island visit.
If You Go
Location: 2309 River Ridge Road in DeLand, FloridaHours: Open 8 a.m.–4 p.m. daily
Amenities: Benches, boat slips, kayak launch, hiking trails, campsites and cabins (currently closed), playground, restrooms, boardwalks, parking
Activities: Hiking, paddling, boating, fishing, camping (currently closed), wildlife viewing
Accessibility: When the island’s ferry service returns, the boat is accessible to people who use mobility aids. Handicap-accessible restrooms and other amenities are also available.
What to bring: Maps are posted along the trails, but it might be wise to download a PDF map onto a smartphone. Bug spray will help keep mosquitoes and other insects at bay. Be sure to pack water and snacks during a trip to the island.
What not to bring: Florida’s state parks prohibit alcohol (except in campgrounds) and the removal or destruction of plants, animals, and cultural artifacts. That applies especially on and around the sensitive shell mound, where historical artifacts are still found.
Pets: Leashed pets are allowed at Hontoon Island State Park.
Pro tips: Call the ranger station for the most current updates on the return of amenities and services, such as the free island ferry.
For more information: 386-736-5309, or FloridaStateParks.org
