Apple Pie
I have been obsessed with making a perfect apple pie for years. I want the crust flaky and tender. Well, I solved that with a lard crust, though a poultry fat or tallow crust works fine. Then I want a juicy filling, but it can’t be runny or gummy. Cooking and thickening the apples before putting them into the crust, a make-ahead technique, solves the runniness problem because you know exactly what you are putting into the crust. This works particularly well with Granny Smith apples, which retain a pleasing firmness. Other varieties may soften more; I leave it to you to find the apple or combination of apples you like best.Serves 8
- Double-crust pastry made with any animal fat (except bacon grease, recipe follows)
- 4 Granny Smith or other large apples
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons any animal fat (except bacon grease)
- 3/4 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar
- 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 1/4 cup water, plus more as needed
- 1 teaspoon milk
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar