A Side of Salsa, Extra Smoke

A Side of Salsa, Extra Smoke
Koenig’s salsa tatemada is bright and spicy with layers of sweetness, pungency, wafting herbal aromas, and a chunky consistency that’s occasionally punctuated by a bitter, burnt speck. Ari LeVaux
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At the 12th annual Butte Bouldering Bash a few weeks back, rock climbers gathered to scramble up the crystal-flecked boulders that sprout from the earth along the Pipestone section of Montana’s continental divide. Climbing requires a lot of nourishment: carbohydrates to keep you going, and protein to rebuild those tired muscles. And, just as importantly, they need the morale boost that good food can impart, to keep them happy and excited to be in the game. Even climbers need flavor to keep them eating, and stories to keep them engaged, because food is more than mere fuel for the tank.

And that is why a private chef named Meg Koenig showed up at Boulder Bash headquarters, having driven from Bozeman with a rig full of warm food and intoxicating smells. Her taut, climber arms laid out a taco buffet with fillings of black bean mole and a blend of slow-cooked lamb, beef, and pork, alongside steaming stacks of tortillas with all the fixings. The crown jewels of the spread were jars of fresh, flame-roasted salsa. There were visible flecks of charred goodness floating in the salsa, giving it a soulful, smoky look that you could almost taste through the glass. She agreed to give me her salsa recipe, but warned that it’s a feeling as much as a formula.

Ari LeVaux
Ari LeVaux
Author
Ari LeVaux writes about food in Missoula, Mont.
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