NEW YORK-The seventh day of New York Fashion Week brought with it the Kaufmanfranco Fall 2014 vision of ‘cool, calm and collected’ ready-to-wear.
Designers Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco’s muse was nowhere to be seen, although even if she was, it’s not her curret style that the duo evoked: “This season it definitely was a little bit of Kate Moss from 90´s,” said Isaac Franco after the show.
Virtuosos of architectural cuts, their color pallete is always on the cool side of the spectrum. This time it was ivory, onyx, royal blue and what can only be defined as glacier-blue. The latter was even more fascinating when it took on a creamy quality in a leather coat and mini dress ensemble.
Black was in abundance but pieces like the strapless gown covered in rectangular horizontal sequins shimmered like a mirage. It was black but light played with the surface giving it a special lightness and a liquid feel.
This texture was seen again in a short strapless dress but this time in that lovely glacier-blue.
At the other extreme of the textural spectrum was a herringbone patterned fur coat whose simplicty belied a keen sense of proportion. The mini hemline rose and fell in small increments in the jackets and with small asymetrical features.
Most memorable in this pattern though was a magnified herringbone floor length coat and maxi dress that were light enough to flow as the model walked-a kind of rarified tweed.
The collection is a natural progression of the label’s vision but we’re not complaining as the creative tension between Kaufman and Franco is definitely not a case of too many cooks spoiling the broth. There is a tension between sophisticated and edgy, that continues to fascinate.
“Being two people is definitely that constant back and forth attention between us, but our ideas come together and create one,” said Isaac Franco.
The big bang of the collection came in the form of the metallicevening gowns that again looked deceptively simple and felt like liquid light poured over the female form, becoming part of it.
With Reporting by Ingrid Longauerová