We knew it was coming: The point in the summer when the garden overflows with zucchini and all manner of herbs, ready to become dinner.
Sprinkle tender basil and oregano over tomatoes, pizza, and eggs. Use chives on savory dishes, even popcorn. Flavor pitchers of water with mint for a refreshing touch.
Fortunately, the zucchini still proves sweet and tender enough for a quick saute in butter. Toss it with warm rice or pasta and cheese, or serve it as a bed for grilled fish.
For the grilled fish and zucchini, a creamy sauce seems in order. Salmon in sorrel sauce from my first edition copy of “The Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean & Pierre Troisgros” comes to mind. Arguably the most famous French chefs of their era, they pounded their salmon for a quick pan-fry in oil before bathing the thin pieces in a cream sauce studded with lemony-tasting fresh sorrel leaves.
I made this recipe on repeat as a young cook. Fresh sorrel leaves are still hard to come by in most markets, so I exchange it for fresh fennel and other herbs. On hot days, I swap fish stock for light chicken broth.
I prefer to cook fish outside for aroma reasons, so I skip the pounding and cook individual fillet portions on a piping hot griddle set on the grill. This is akin to using a covered grill like an oven. The bonus? The kitchen stays cooler.
Salmon roasts on a hot grill in about 10 minutes. Prepare the rest of the dish ahead of time: zucchini sauteed in butter and garlic, plus a simple cream sauce made in the same skillet. Then reheat the sauce just as the salmon comes off the grill.
Look for wild-caught Atlantic salmon or salmon farm-raised according to best practices from Norway. For an attractive presentation, choose 2-inch-wide fillets about 6 inches long, with a generous inch at their thickest.
Serve the salmon with a salad of dark leafy greens or sliced red and yellow heirloom tomatoes drizzled with a lemony vinaigrette. Sop up the creamy fennel sauce with warm, crusty French bread. Finish with something cool and refreshing, such as watermelon wedges or strawberry sorbet.









