Some travelers head for the ski slopes in winter, some fly like “snow birds” deep, deep down south to escape frozen breezes and toes. A few sojourners though, they head to Crete to enjoy a bit of moderation in between. Yes my favorite island has snowcapped mountains and wintry sullen beaches to trod, plus a lot more. For your information, and to further solidify my position as Crete’s biggest evangelist, here’s an off season suggestion for you skiers who would as soon stroll an empty beach.
For the would-be winter migration you’re considering , Crete is an island paradise cheaper to enjoy by far than any Florida getaway, and with its own brand of diverse pleasures. Here’s just a sampling.
Mountains to Sea: A Natural Crete in Between
If you’ve never flown into Crete, then the dramatic landscape that meets your eyes as your plane turns to land at Heraklion or Chania is something to anticipate. This land of the ancient Minoans is at once a desert paradise, a bit like El Paso, Texas in my mind, and a seaside wonderland where crystal waters lap up onto pristine sands. In between all this perception tiny villages dot the territory, imperceptibly the geography of the place transforms everything and everyone into a muted state of natural bliss. Oh well, to be honest the sense of the place is impossible to capture. It’s wild, virgin, easy, exciting and calm all at once. The first thing any naturalist would notice would be the abundance of nature unfolded onto civilization.
And to that last part, the great White Mountains of Crete dip down into each village and city, like Zeus himself etched out a path to the Cretan or Libyan Sea. Can you tell I love the countryside of Crete? Well, you will too, wait and see. From a rocky precipice on the coast northeast of Chania, Stavros is a mix of million euro villas and places Zorba the Greek himself would frequent. In fact, the film used one of the local beaches not far from the place you see in the first image above. Wintering here, you can show ski in the morning, and then plod along that same beach in the afternoon, can you imagine? In March November or March one finds the Cretan people having fun outdoors, as in the couple we caught playing at the beach in shorts.
City Slickers and Sightseers
As wild and wondrous as this Mediterranean island is, visitors can find whatever urban civilities they desire from Chania and Heraklion, to Agios Nikolaos or Irepetra to the south. Retheymno’s magical nearby villages, or even to the far west and Kissamos, there’s plenty of history, museums, and just downright picturesque places to be and snap pictures.
I remember back in “the day” my parents talking about the “snow birds” who always flocked to central Florida in winter. Orlando, where we lived, was literally swarming with retired folks out to save their bones the twinges of icy cold Chicago or Minneapolis nights. Back then, as now, northerners visited charming places like Winter Park, Ocala, Tampa and Sarasota, for the warmth, and for the quaint shopping spots. I was impressed with Crete in this regard, because the towns remind me of America back in the 1960s. Some will like knowing, the prices on Crete are a bit 1965 too.
Funny thing too, the citizens do too, with their honest and rare brand of what Greeks call “filoxenia” - the love of travelers, so they say. From the mighty Palace at Knossos, to the harbor at Chania, iconic places and sites are all around, so you‘ll never, ever get bored of discovering. And as for shopping? I’ll let you wander the pedestrian zones of those towns, you'll soon see.
Cretan Food
If Crete were the ugliest island on God’s green Earth, it would be worth living there for just the food. Heralded for eons as one of the healthiest places on the planet, Crete is famous for its cuisines. We’ve dined at some of the best places to eat in Europe, and I can attest that none is superior to the smalled tavern in the mountains outside Rethymno, or classier than the offering at Brillant Restaurant in Heraklion. Our friends at Lato Boutique Hotel overlooking the harbor there, they’ve left no stone unturned in creating thrilling, dynamic culinary art, and for the price of a Copenhagen hamburger. Can you taste grilled octopus any octopus hater would love? How about Salmon that melts away in your mouth like warm butter? Maybe a wine you never witness before could temp you?
Brillant, just about to open in November for the off season, is the sister of the famous Herbs’ Garden Restaurant, which afford an incomparable view overlooking the sea. Oh, and lest I forget, our friend Kostas Hamogiorgakis’ Taverna Goules in the village of the same name, it’s proof positive Crete cuisine is not some boring departure into vegan-land. The people of Crete, in case you do not know, love their meat and fish. So, healthy does not always mean soft yogurt and green beans. In ever town or village along this 150 long stretch of paradise, you'll find foods of incomparable taste and quality. And this says nothing for the rich wines nor the Raki of Crete. Of the latter, let me just say behind every grocery store counter, there’s a €4 liter bottle of this magic water. (fire water to my native American brothers)
You’re Welcome
Did you ever drive down south to enjoy some of that legendary, good old southern American hospitality only to find, it’s only served up to people from the south? If you’re from Chicago or Philly, I know you have, trust me. What was and is mythical in my homeland (for many) is never a lie on Crete. I can tell you story after story about the kindness travelers are shown here. One that comes to mind, when we stayed at a hamlet in west Crete, is that of a patriarch of a village, laying fresh eggs and oranges at our doorstep each morning. His family having owned the land some 400 years, he did not, you see, own the villa at which we were staying. If I told you I stayed on Crete once for 22 days and did not pay for a meal, you'd call me a liar. But I did.
Thinking of wintering in Florida? How would it be to book a room only to find yourself waking up to French doors overlooking a balcony and all Crete? What if a smile were still as easy as any breeze? How about asking the local butcher for some ribs to cook out with, and somehow 5 kilos of handmade sausages and lamb end up in your bag? What if oranges sweet enough to make Florida ashamed were free? If the sun shined, the mild winds blew, and 1000 adventures waited you in Crete, would you fly like a snow bird there? If you just come to meet the people, you'll find Crete warmer than Tampa or St. Pete.
As Crete’s greatest evangelist it’s my duty to insist, you think about Crete for the winter time. Florida is, super crowded after all.
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