Be Your Garden’s Bodyguard

Be Your Garden’s Bodyguard
The correct amount of fertilizer, nutrients, sunshine, and water should result in plants with beautiful, healthy leaves.(Rawpixel.com/Shutterstock)
5/17/2023
Updated:
5/17/2023

Gardens need protection; rabbits, aphids, and sooty mold will love your harvest as much as you do, and Murphy’s law can send a once-in-a-100-years cold snap as soon as you put in new seedlings. Even if you’ve done everything right—planted the right crops in the right place and spaced them so they have room to breathe, watered them in the morning and at the roots, fertilized properly, deadheaded, pruned, and quickly removed fallen fruit—pests and other environmental factors can still wreak havoc in the garden.

Don’t let all your hard work go to waste. From the moment your garden sprouts, you need to take measures to keep it safe. Inspecting your plants regularly—as often as once a day—is a critical step toward protecting them and allows you to discover problems while they’re still small.

When uncertain if a plant is being overwatered or not, cut back and apply hydrogen peroxide to its roots.(Fotokostic/Shutterstock)
When uncertain if a plant is being overwatered or not, cut back and apply hydrogen peroxide to its roots.(Fotokostic/Shutterstock)

What to Look for

Visible pests are the easiest to eliminate; aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, white flies, and scale can be treated with nontoxic Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap (one ounce in a 32-ounce spray bottle of water). If the infestation is very small, you may be able to simply snip off the infested area or leaves.
A white or black powdery substance is most likely a mold or fungus. Treat it with a half tablespoon of organic Neem oil, and a quarter tablespoon of Castile soap in a 32-ounce spray bottle of water. You may need to repeat the process weekly until the mold is gone, with the bonus that Neem oil disrupts the laying of eggs of the insects you don’t want, and prevents their larvae development without harming beneficial bees, butterflies, or ladybugs.

Soil Situations

Wilting plants can be a sign of overwatering, so start by cutting back. Stunted growth can also signal “wet feet.” When in doubt, cut back on the overall watering, and apply 3 percent hydrogen peroxide in two parts water to the roots. This has the benefit of both killing the bacteria and adding oxygen to the soil to encourage new root growth.

If this doesn’t work, you’re likely to have pests feeding on the roots (wilting or drooping plants) or at other diseases (more common with the stunted growth). Organic controls for root pests include dusting with diatomaceous earth, adding beneficial nematodes to the soil, and releasing predatory rove beetles.

Mild soil-borne diseases may be fixed with the peroxide treatment, but in more serious situations, an organic copper fungicide may be needed.

New plants are the tastiest and most vulnerable, and may attract wildlife if not protected.(Rita_Kochmarjova/Shutterstock)
New plants are the tastiest and most vulnerable, and may attract wildlife if not protected.(Rita_Kochmarjova/Shutterstock)

Leaf Lore

If you notice yellow, brown, and spotted leaves, your plant is talking to you as its doctor, asking for help. Yellow leaves can be caused by pests, overwatering, underwatering, or not enough sun. If you’ve eliminated those, you are probably dealing with Chlorosis, a lack of chlorophyll, and a deficiency of potassium, iron, and, most importantly, nitrogen. If it starts at the base of the plant and moves up, it’s definitely a lack of nitrogen. Fertilize with an organic fertilizer, unless it’s extreme, in which case you need a fast-release chemical solution.
Brown leaves can also have several causes, particularly too little or too much irrigation. Start there. Brown leaves can also indicate over-fertilizing (back off for a bit), or soil problems (see “Soil Situations.”) Brown leaves, particularly brown spots on leaves, can be a sign of poor air circulation, which has led to a leaf fungus (get out the Neem!) or blight, which can often be treated with an application of lime sulfur or a copper spray. If the plants get really bad, remove them to keep them from infesting/infecting others. If all else fails, do a soil test to check for nutrient deficiencies.

Critter Control

Rabbits, deer, squirrels, and other wildlife are adorable—until they begin to feast on your garden before you can. Very often, new plants are the tastiest and the most vulnerable, so use a plant protector until the plants become established.

When it comes to critter control, many people start with repellents. These can be liquid or granular products that are pungent, smelly, or bitter-tasting, like Snake-A-Way. Others use visual deterrents, ranging from plastic owls to corn-protecting scarecrows that are for more than just Halloween. More modern devices include ground-vibrating spikes and motion-activated sprinklers.

To deter more determined critters, consider deer fencing, chicken wire, hardware cloth, or vinyl-coated metal fencing at least three feet tall. For rodents, rabbits, groundhogs, and other creatures that will try to go underneath the fence, consider burying boards, that you can then build a fence on, or a fence that goes at least 12 inches below ground. Birds, squirrels, and other climbers may require netting stretched over the garden.

Let your pets participate as well. Groundhogs hate barking dogs, while cats have long been used to deter small rodents, including voles and chipmunks.

SIDEBAR:

All Weather Gardening

Gardeners live by the historical frost dates and weather forecasts, but no one can plan for every eventuality. Or can they?

Unexpected Frost

Moist soil holds more heat, so water your plants. Use a garden cloche (or make one by cutting the bottom off a plastic milk jug), pushing the bottom inch into the soil. Cover larger in-ground plants with old blankets, bedspreads, or towels draped over plant stakes and touching the ground.

High Winds

Cloches protect plants from the wind as well as cold. You can make them from just about anything, even a five-gallon bucket with a weight on top. For larger plants, consider adding additional plant stakes or a cage. Wrap vulnerable plants in burlap.

Heavy Rain

Shelters from pounding rain range from cover fabric held in place by landscape pegs over young seedlings, to more sophisticated hoop-tunnel structures. Mulch heavily, as excess rainfall can wash away new plantings and soil.
Sandy Lindsey is an award-winning writer who covers home, gardening, DIY projects, pets, and boating. She has two books with McGraw-Hill.
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