Few places in the world just absolutely wow you like Prague. From the very first moment you see that storybook skyline, you’ll be spellbound. Whether you’re exploring by water, on foot, or from high up above, at every turn, this City of a Hundred Spires will take your breath away. And for the record, it’s (way) more than a hundred: If we’re counting today, between steeples and turrets and towers, more than a thousand spires rise high above the Czech capital.
While there are centuries of history here, and so much to see, Prague is a fairly compact place. I first visited the city on a backpacking trip more than two decades ago, and its romance and friendliness—its cobblestones and soaring buttresses and steaming dumplings and frosty beers—keep bringing me back—more than a dozen times now. If I just had one day (and one night), here’s how I would pack in as much as possible.
Getting There
Vaclav Havel Airport is relatively small and easy to navigate, and quite close to town. It'll only take you about 20 minutes to reach most places. The very budget-conscious can take a bus—a one-way fare is about three bucks. Warning: While you can also take a taxi, local drivers can often be tricky, sometimes not turning on the meter or charging an unreasonable flat rate. I’d recommend ride-sharing services like Uber, which are inexpensive, reliable, and safe. Or just pre-book a transfer with a trusted service.
Note that while Czechia is part of the borderless Schengen zone, it retains its own currency, the koruna, or crown (1 euro gets you about 25 koruna). This makes the country relatively inexpensive, keeping things a little cheaper than even neighboring Slovakia, which uses the euro.
Morning: Top Sights
Hit the top highlights first, as the heat and the crowds will build throughout the day. The best place to start is the Astronomical Clock. People have been gathering here at Old Town Square since this beautiful timepiece first chimed in 1410, and it still does, at the top of every hour. More than just a clock, this is a show: A skeleton rings his bell, then the 12 apostles march through.
Then, check out some of the other attractions around the Square. Some 200 feet to the northeast, the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn looks out over it all. Admission is free, so pop inside and walk through the Baroque interior. If it were a little later in the day, I’d recommend the absinthe bar just around the corner. But for now, grab a cup of “turek,” a Czech variation on the strong Turkish cup, at one of several coffee shops lining the square. Then settle back and engage in some of the best people-watching you’ll find anywhere.
The Old Town Square clock features four different time-telling traditions: Old Bohemian time, used during the Middle Ages; modern time-telling, adopted by the Germans in 1547; Ancient Babylonian time; and stellar time, which shows the positions of the sun, moon, and stars in the sky. (Jack Hunter/Unsplash)
The Havelske Trziste market dates back to 1232 and sells fruits, vegetables, and arts and crafts. (Silvio Pelegrin/Pexels)
From one icon to the next, walk across the cobblestones, winding through the small lanes of Old Town, to the Charles Bridge. While the Vltava River is picturesque, it is a place of strong currents, and not an easy waterway to navigate—or traverse. Workers laid the bridge’s cornerstone in 1357. From the time it was finished until nearly 500 years later, the bridge and its 16 sandstone archways were the only span across, linking the two sides of the city.
Like many great projects, the bridge—later named after King Charles IV—was a long work in progress. Two towers, one constructed in Gothic style and the other in Renaissance style, were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. A series of Baroque statues, including one of the country’s patron saint, appeared in the 17th century. Today, painters and performers line the bridge.
(Tip: If you have time to return at night, it’s very atmospheric—the lights of Prague all around, the castle above, perhaps a little mist coming off the Vltava.)
A scenic sunrise over the Charles Bridge. (Alexander Spatari/Moment/Getty Images)
The Old Town Bridge Tower, featuring statues of King Charles IV, St. Vitus, and Wenceslas IV. (diegograndi/iStock/Getty Images Plus)
Lunch: Simple and Hearty
Cross over to Lesser Town. A busy afternoon awaits, so it’s worth fortifying yourself with some real Czech fare. Lokal U Bile kuzelky serves simple and delicious food, attracting a faithful local following as well as tourists.
Lunch specialties at this always-busy spot include a bone-in pork chop sourced from a farm in nearby Prestice, roast beef with pickles, and turkey schnitzel. Lighter dishes are available, like a shopska salad. But you should probably take this opportunity for a big meal, especially because refills on the sides (including both bread and potato dumplings, and potato salad) are unlimited. Treat yourself to a frosty mug of beer, another great Czech passion (more on that below).
On a sunny day, locals and tourists alike flock to the many outdoor cafes that make up the city's vibrant food scene. (franz12/Shutterstock)
Afternoon: Heart of a Nation
Explore a little bit of Lesser Town, which tends to attract fewer tourists. The area, called Mala Strana in Czech, has a local feel, with shoppers hustling home with bags of groceries and old Soviet-era trams rattling by.
A highlight: the John Lennon Wall. Part of a quiet square across from the French Embassy, the graffiti painted there reflects the growing discontent with the communist regime. At the start of the Prague Spring in 1968, poems, slogans, and stories would decorate the wall. After the assassination of Lennon in 1980, an unknown artist painted the musician’s image. After that, much of the art related to the Beatles, but still voiced resistance to the communist regime, right up until the Velvet Revolution.
The John Lennon Wall tells the story of the Czech people’s resistance against communism. (emka74/Shutterstock)
It’s time to hike—or take one of those rattling trams—up to the castle. This is the heart and soul of the Czech nation. You could literally spend days and days here. But since we’re on a tight schedule, take in the two biggest attractions.
The first, the Gothic masterpiece of St. Vitus Cathedral, is where the Czechs have long buried their kings, queens, and patron saints. Just nearby, spend a little time in the Old Royal Palace, where an infamous 1618 defenestration (three guys got tossed out a window) was a key event leading up to the Thirty Years’ War.
The ornate facade of the St. Vitus Cathedral. (OlyaSolodenko/iStock/Getty Images Plus)
Take a Break
It’s time to reset. Stop in for a drink at the Four Seasons Hotel Prague, tucked away right next to the Vltava. Here, hotel designers took three historic buildings—Renaissance, Classical, and Baroque—and built a modern lobby and restaurant to unite them. At Cottocrudo, their main restaurant, bartenders perform the absinthe ritual, a big pour with plenty of flame. And if you’re not up for a massive tasting menu at Field (see below for my suggestion), stay here for dinner—the pastas in particular are very tasty, including the homemade duck ravioli with Parmesan and black truffle.
Stop by the Four Seasons Hotel for a fun absinthe drink served at its restaurant bar. (Shevchenko Andrey/Shutterstock)
Early Evening: Czech History and Communism
Sneak in a visit to the well-curated and quite impressive Museum of Communism. A simple entry hall, under a big red star and next to a statue of Karl Marx, declares: “Dream, Reality, Nightmare.” Exhibits are excellent, bringing together photos and videos, audio recordings, and art.
They take visitors through the overall trajectory of 20th-century Czech history, from the Cold War to the Velvet Revolution. But also pay attention to day-to-day life during this difficult period: its oppression, practical challenges, and the humanity of everyday people. You’ll read and hear the voices of victims and heroes throughout.
Dinner at Field
Prague has just two restaurants honored with a Michelin star, and Field is a favorite. Started by two friends, the decor is understated, which somehow seems to underline the spectacular taste and presentation of the food. Chef Radek Kasparek, who hosts several Czech television cooking shows, serves up seasonal menus with locally sourced ingredients.
The cuisine takes the traditional and elevates it. For dinner, they offer a six-course and a 10-course degustation menu that, on one visit, included ingredients such as sturgeon, Arctic char, rabbit, and a hearty dish with lamb, shallots, peas, onions, and bone marrow. It’s a delicious way to wind down a busy day.
Later Evening: Catch a Show
While you may not have the time (or energy) to do anything after that big meal at Field, Prague is definitely a city that offers nighttime options. If you managed an early dinner, head to the Estates Theatre. It’s worth a visit just to see the building itself—opened in 1783, it’s a neoclassical treasure.
In some ways, the building is the birthplace of Czech professional theater. And, famously, it’s the place where Mozart first staged his opera “Don Giovanni.” The Estates still offers the classic regularly, and tickets often aren’t difficult to find.
Inside the Estates Theatre, with its neoclassical features. (CC BY 3.0 DEED)
The atmospheric environs near the Charles Bridge. (Dmitry Goykolov/Unsplash)
Or, if you’re into something a little faster, and harder, Rock Café hosts regular live shows. The venue was a key site of the anti-communist resistance, with local rock bands, including one called Plastic People of the Universe (or just “the Plastics”) providing subaltern voices.
And for a nightcap? Try one last quintessential Prague experience. For hundreds of years, this city was known as a place of alchemists and magicians. The Alchemist Bar plays on that theme, with flickering candles and intricately inscribed menus. Make this your final stop for a nice elixir, a signature, handmade cocktail—Heaven Mountain, maybe, or a Bohemian Twist—before bedtime.
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