Bangkok, one of the most popular travel destinations in the world, is also a major hub for travel elsewhere. If you find yourself in the Big Mango for a long layover, plan to leave the airport for some time in the city. What you choose to do will depend on your interest: Food? Historical sites? Museums? Shopping? Maybe a bit of everything. Part of it will depend on what time it is—or what time your body thinks it is.
Bangkok, or “Krung Thep” to the Thais, is a city of 11 million and the capital of the Kingdom of Thailand (formerly Siam). Sometimes called the Venice of the East, Bangkok is built along the winding, well-traversed Chao Phraya River and on top of a system of canals, some but not all of which are now beneath the concrete. The city combines the finest elements of modern Asia, with the allure of dazzling temples and a foodie scene that’s endless.
7 AM–9 AM: Early Arrivals
If you get into the city before most shops and attractions open, try a stroll in nature. Lumphini Park offers green space in central Bangkok, with all sorts of bird life, shade, and a lagoon for paddleboats. An elevated pedestrian walkway connects this to the new and wilder Benjakitti Forest Park. Both are served by subway and sky train. Find a street vendor that serves jook (rice porridge or congee) with simple fried breads shaped like X’s and O’s or warm soy milk, both Thai breakfast items.9 AM–Noon: Hit the Most Important Sights
A wat is a temple, and if you visit just one, Wat Pho should be it, with its 151-foot golden figure of the “Reclining Buddha” lying on its side in a long hall. This is reachable by subway and by river ferries stopping at Pier 8 (Tha Tian).From 1782 to 1925, the Grand Palace was the official royal residence of the Thai kings. It still hosts important royal events but is one of the top tourist attractions with its glittering mythological figures and golden spires. Part of the complex is the most important temple in Thailand, Wat Phra Kaew Morakot (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), with a Buddha icon carved from jasper. You can see the palace from the river ferries too.
The Siam Museum can tell you all you need to know about the history of Thailand with nice interactive exhibits. The three-story Bangkok Art & Culture Center in the heart of the city hosts exhibits and a few shops, and the building makes a nice air-con stop just steps along the pedestrian bridge from the National Stadium sky train stop and the malls at the end of Bangkok’s long central street, Sukhumvit Road.
Noon–1 PM: Lunchtime
Bangkok offers cuisines from all over the world, and if you’re pressed for time, many of the food courts, even in the malls, are great for finding multiple vendors offering varied see-before-you-buy fresh dishes. Street food is everywhere and fresh, and vendors often sell until they run out of food, so you can be confident eating outside.
1 PM–3 PM: More Exploration
Continue exploring the attractions above or hop on a river ferry or go shopping.If you’re looking for the big brands or just a spectacle of architecture and design, the malls of Bangkok are many along Sukhumvit Road, where the sky train runs. MBK Center is a multistory mall of shops and booth vendors peddling just about everything—and at affordable prices—and the modern malls such as Siam Paragon are within walking distance. Iconsiam, the most impressive newer complex, rises along the west bank of the river with a high outdoor terrace for coffee or drinks with views.
3 PM–5 PM: Heavenly Spas
Work the travel knots out of your muscles for an hour or two. Foot massage is a fine art, and every street seems to have a parlor for it. Thai massage is performed on a padded mat or thin mattress and involves great stretching and pushing pressure points. Aromatherapy is also popular. Smaller spas are abundant and very affordable—some as cheap as $10 for an hour of treatment. Try Yin Yang Massage for good quality and affordable prices.
5 PM–7 PM: Sunset
Set along the west bank of the river, the picturesque Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, is open for visits and reachable by boat but is hot in the midday sun. It’s better to admire it from directly across the river, especially for the sunset.
7 PM–10 PM: Dinner
Marked by a large Ferris wheel and set along the river, Asiatique is an open-air complex of restaurants and bars that opens in the evening.10 PM: Drink and a Stroll
“The Hangover Part II” featured the breathtaking view from Sky Bar at the top of Lebua at State Tower; at 820 feet, it’s one of the highest open-air bars in the world, with a view of the city and the river like no other. Other views offer better drinks, but it’s worth the moment.
An evening stroll in Chinatown, or Yaowarat, finds old storefronts and homes converted into bars and eateries, some of which are right on the river’s edge, and an abundance of street art. Then find Hong Sieng Kong, a repurposed mansion full of antiques and serving great coffee drinks, cocktails, and food with outdoor seating right next to the river and facing west.
When You Go
Money matters: You’ll need Thai baht, so change money at the airport. Most restaurants take credit cards, but cash is still the way with most taxis. Ride-hailing apps Grab and Bolt accept cards and PayPal.Getting to the city: Two airports serve Bangkok: the international Suvarnabhumi (Soo-wah-nah-POOM) east of the city, and the smaller Don Mueang Airport, which also has international flights but is located to the north closer to downtown.
An airport rail link can get you from Suvarnabhumi to the city center in 30 to 40 minutes for $1.50, but many opt for a private ride or a public taxi. If you opt for a cab ride, be sure to use the official taxi stand, which gives you driver information in case of complaints, and insist on the meter. This system has gone a long way toward eliminating the occasional hassles one used to encounter years ago. Don Mueang has a rail link that isn’t great. Rides are best there.
Getting around: Bangkok has a wide variety of transportation options, including the BTS Skytrain, the MRT subway, city buses, the typical taxis (insist on using the meter), ride shares such as Grab taxi (but not Uber), pulse-raising moto-taxis, and the iconic tuk-tuks.
Public and private river shuttles and ferries run during daylight hours. Central Pier (connecting to Saphan Taksin BTS Skytrain station) is a good place to start, and the ferries stop near several tourist sites up and down the river, including Wat Pho. Particular ferries cater to tourists, with hop-on, hop-off day tickets, which include a tourist map and English narration as the boat moves along the river. You can also hire a longtail boat to take you wherever you want or on a joyride. Settle on a price beforehand, of course.
Note: Any visit to the city should include some time along the Chao Phraya River. In the evening, one can book a high-styling sunset or dinner cruise with Chao Phraya Princess on air-conditioned double-decker boats with reserved seating and buffet meals. Or, during daylight hours, just get on board any one of the public or specifically tourist ferries for an open-air ride up and down the river for pocket-change prices.
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