While Sydney often gets the glamorous spotlight and all the attendant attention, many Aussies will tell you that Melbourne is actually their favorite city. No, the sites aren’t as instantly recognizable. No towering Harbour Bridge or iconic white “sails” on the Opera House.
Arrival
Melbourne Airport (MEL), sometimes known locally as Tullamarine, is the second-busiest airport in the country. A hub for the country’s two largest airlines, Qantas and Virgin Australia, a number of national flag carriers also connect MEL to the world. Nonstops from Tokyo, Dubai, Hong Kong, and Bangkok and many other places land here. Plus a small handful of direct flights from North American cities including Los Angeles and San Francisco. Thus many trips to MEL will include a connection on the West coast in the U.S. or, commonly, in Sydney.Set in the suburb of Tullamarine, the airport’s four terminals sit about 11 miles northwest of the city’s urban core. While a rail link is in the works, those plans won’t be realized for several years (some estimates have this 30-minute train ride being available in 2030 at the soonest). So for the moment, you’ll need to hit the road.
Morning
Start your day early—and with a thrill. Melbourne is one of the few places in the world where you can hop in a hot-air balloon and float above the downtown heart of the city below. It’s an experience you’ll never, ever forget.A company called Global Ballooning has been offering these trips for decades. You’ll gather in a quiet field about 90 minutes before sunrise. Just watching the pilot fire up and fill the balloon with gas is fascinating. The orange flame contrasting with a sky turning from black to blue to auburn, as the unbelievably huge, oblong orb rises into the sky.
And soon enough, you’re soaring beneath it, in a big wicker basket. Thousands of feet below, spreading out at your feet, the city comes awake. Melburnians taking a swim, or playing tennis, or walking their dogs. The morning rush hour on the highways, just starting to build, as cars and trucks the size of matchbox toys whiz on the highways.
The balloon will spirit you on a flight path directly over the summit of the skyline in the CBD. You may be tempted—but there’s no need to hold your breath. The basket will crest at just the right time, revealing helicopter pads and rooftop gardens atop the office buildings. Then, hopefully, a smooth landing in a field beyond.
You can opt for an included breakfast at the Pullman Hotel, or just keep going. Honestly, it’s probably best to stay in motion. During busy days like this one, maintaining momentum is key.
Keep your feet moving at the Queen Victoria Market, in the CBD. Listed on the National Heritage List, it is the largest open-air market south of the equator. Builders constructed and opened the market over a span of two decades in the late 19th century. Obviously a fine spot to shop, its 600 shops are also an excellent place for people-watching. And eating.
Every corner takes you to new and exciting bites. Butchers, bakers, fishmongers. Fresh fruit and food stalls. Take your pick. The offerings reflect the city’s rich diversity. Chocolate and truffles in the Dairy Produce Hall. Dutch pancakes (for those still feeling like breakfast), bratwurst and borek and Vietnamese pho and oysters for people hungry for lunch. Authentic gelato. Really good coffee. And you can’t miss out on some ultimate Aussie treats, including kangaroo jerky.
Afternoon
Browse and sample until you’re refueled and ready to go. Then, walk to the southeast. A stroll of about 30 to 45 minutes will take you to a series of interlocking parks stretched along the Yarra River.This is the perfect place to ramble, and work off some of that food from the market. And you could really, truly spend an entire day in the Royal Botanic Gardens. Spread across 38 hectares (about 94 acres), explore the bamboo forest, as well as rainforest plants and camellias. While (perhaps, hopefully) encountering kookaburras and cockatoos, as well as black swans in the calm waters of the ponds.
Now, it’s finally time for a rest. Fortunately, you can board the MV Melba Star right nearby, for a Yarra River sightseeing cruise. Put up your feet, and enjoy the commentary, sites, and afternoon sun. A typical voyage lasts about an hour and takes you past landmarks like the aquarium and cargo port, in one direction, and the historic Como House and the Melbourne Cricket Ground—almost always referred to, very affectionately, as just “the G”—in the other.
Either way, you’ll feel the pulse of this city. Rowers propelling their sculls. Locals out for a little look around in their “tinnies,” Aussie slang for small motorboats. The many bridges above the flow are alive and bustling with bicyclists and joggers.
“This is the upside-down river,” a guide once told me while navigating up the Yarra, noting the brown, clay soil that runs along its surface. In the 1850s, he added, it carried in “diggers” (prospectors) from around the world. They were here in the hopes of striking it rich in the Victorian gold rush. Thousands of people poured into the area, and miners pulled billions of dollars’ worth from the soil.
Evening
As the day cools, and the powerful southern sun wanes, it’s a good time to explore a new neighborhood, one of many distinct districts throughout the city. Continue south to St Kilda—about 25 minutes by tram (or just 10 in a taxi or Uber). Soaking in the last of the warming rays, begin by walking the palm-lined boardwalk along St Kilda Beach, a big sweep of sand. The most popular beach in the city, it’s famous for its sea baths and long pier. (And penguins—but more on that in a minute.)Then, enjoy dinner at Stokehouse, right by the flashing waters of Port Phillip Bay. This is one of the city’s very best restaurants. The fine dining menu is focused on fresh, sustainable seafood. Think: tuna belly and melon bite to start, followed, say, by John Dory in a rich, steaming Yarra Valley caviar butter sauce—with a fantastic view that matches the food.
Afterward, the choice is yours. It’s been a busy day. You can spend the evening wandering the (really fascinating) streets of St Kilda. Pop back to the pier to take in the colony of thousands of little penguins, nestled in the rocks, which are more active in the evening. Ride the rattling roller coaster at Luna Park, one of the oldest coasters in the world. Catch a show at a local club—the Prince Bandroom, for one, has been hosting live music and all sorts of other performances since the 1950s.
Or, if you’re catching a second wind, head for some sport. Melbourne is usually recognized as the country’s most athletic city, home to world-renowned tournaments (including the Australian Open, one of four Grand Slams on the international tennis tour). If you can catch a cricket match at the G, that’s the best.
The stadium itself is historic; it opened back in the mid-19th century. Test cricket was born here, and the stadium also hosted the 1956 Olympic Games. Today, join thousands of fervent fans cheering on Aussie rules-football, rugby, soccer and, of course, cricket. Be swept up by the passion of the crowd, their energy counteracting any fatigue. A busy Melbourne day, now passing into an electric night.
