In many ways, Lisbon, Portugal, isn’t like other major European destinations. In Paris, Madrid, Rome, and Athens, your schedule is pretty much already set once you land. The list of must-see attractions is obvious. Eiffel Tower. Plaza Mayor. Acropolis. The Colosseum. Easy.
But that’s not necessarily the case in Portugal’s capital. A city of winding lanes, meandering across undulating hills—the whole place climbing away from the water—Lisbon invites exploration. It’s not a spot to queue and crowd along the beaten path but, rather, a place to discover (including so much delicious food and wine). That happens on foot, by boat, and rattling along on a tram, too. There’s so much to see and do that it’s a challenge to accomplish in a single day, but here’s a plan to discover as much as possible in just 24 hours.
Arrival
Humberto Delgado Airport (LIS) is right in the thick of things. If you have the right perch, it’s actually rather fun to watch the planes landing in and taking off from the heart of the city. Leaders announced a new airport last year, set to be built 25 miles east of town. But it won’t be operational for a while—right now, the anticipated completion date is 2034.So LIS handles traffic from around the world—it’s the busiest single-runway airport on the continent. TAP, the national flag carrier, and a number of other airlines offer nonstop flights from a range of North American cities including Boston, Chicago, Montreal, Toronto, Philadelphia, Miami, and New York City.
Morning
The first thing to do is decide if you’re ready for a long walk to stretch your legs and get your blood pumping after a long flight. If so, take the direct subway to Saldanha Station. From there, it’s about a 45-minute walk to the cobblestones of Bairro Alto. If you’d rather save your energy, take the 208 bus from the airport all the way to Rossio Square, a ride of about 40 minutes, depending on the traffic.Once you arrive, wander. Development in Bairro Alto, literally the “upper neighborhood,” began in the early 16th century. This is one of the quarters that make up the old town, built just outside the original medieval wall of the city. Take a little time to browse along its grid of streets and lanes at the little boutiques, from record shops to bookstores to vintage clothing stores. Snap a photo of the famous Elevador de Santa Justa, built from iron in neo-Gothic style in 1902. A trip to the top is also worth it for its incomparable views of the city.
But you’ll want to keep progressing down the cobblestones, toward the water. Ramble in the general direction of the Time Out Market. That airplane breakfast is probably wearing a little thin.
Time Out Market is the perfect place for an early lunch, because this food hall brings all the best of Lisbon’s cuisine under its vaulted skylights. You’ll find 26 restaurants in a market space that has been rebuilt and reinvented several times since it first opened as the Mercado da Ribeira in 1882. The best part? If you’re traveling with family or friends, everyone can get a different dish and share.
You’ll be able to sample everything from super-fresh seafood to local classics like pica-pau—small pieces of beef in a garlic sauce. The name means “woodpecker” and refers to the way people pick away at the little pieces of meat when they eat it. There’s lots more, too—burgers, croquettes, soups, and gelato. Whatever you get, finish it off with the ultimate Lisbon treat: pastéis de nata, handmade eggy, sugary, creamy tarts with a flaky crust.
Afternoon
When you’re refueled and ready to go, hop on the No. 15 tram. Clickety-clack along the waterfront, to the Belem Tower, looking out the window, across the water, for views of the Sanctuary of Christ the King. Rio’s Christ the Redeemer statue inspired this statue, and the similarities are obvious.“His arms are outstretched, to protect the city,” a guide once told me.
Once you arrive at Belem, walk to the limestone landmark, which dates back to the Portuguese Renaissance in the 16th century. This tower, a fortification in Manueline style, was the ceremonial gateway to the city in the time of trans-Atlantic exploration. Today, it’s part of a UNESCO World Heritage site, as well as a very popular place for Lisboetas to gather in the sun.
It’s also a perfect jumping-off point for a river tour, perhaps the best way to get an overall perspective on Lisbon. This city’s history was shaped by the Atlantic. It’s built along the Tagus River (Rio Tejo), the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula. That waterway’s estuary forms a deep, sheltered, natural harbor.
Lisbon by Boat offers a two-hour sailing tour. Board a yacht and let a guide show you the historical sites that line the water, all while you sip a drink and sample some Portuguese appetizers. The whole city will be spread before you, jumbled and busy and built upon itself, layer upon layer.
The city slopes away from the river. Just sit back, relax, and try to picture this place as it looked to explorers in the 1400s and 1500s, setting sail for the unknown.
While they navigated to the New World, your boat will loop back to shore. There’s plenty more to experience in the city. From the Belem Tower, head back toward the middle of town and to the LX Factory—about 25 minutes by bus, or 10 minutes by taxi or Uber. Both are very cheap in Lisbon.
The LX Factory sits right under the Ponte 25 de Abril, which looks a lot like the Golden Gate Bridge and was named for the date of the country’s Carnation Revolution. The industrial feel at LX Factory remains, despite its renovation and conversion to a creative space and marketplace. You can still feel the hardworking, dynamic energy of those 19th-century days when this was a working textile factory. Called Companhia de Fiação e Tecidos Lisbonense, the factory was a huge place covering almost 250,000 square feet.
But these days, this definitely isn’t a place to punch the clock. Instead, as the afternoon wears on, more and more Lisboetas will gather here for food, drinks, and maybe a little shopping. One can’t-miss spot, among the 50 or so establishments here, is Ler Devagar.
This is often recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores. Fun fact: Its name means “read slowly.” A flying bicycle keeps watch over four floors of new and used books. Ramble up and down the narrow staircases to discover not just 50,000 titles, but also antique printing equipment, a coffee shop, and even a little bar tucked away in the back.
Now is the time to pump the brakes on a day that’s been very busy so far. Meander through the shops in the brick warehouses, which include small studios with handmade items from artisans. Admire the murals. On many afternoons and nights, bands come here to play open-air shows—if that’s the case, grab a drink and watch and listen (two drinks and you may just be tempted to dance).
Evening
There’s plenty of choice here for dinner. A restaurant called Cantina maintains a blue-collar feel—it was inspired by the original canteen that served workers back in 1846—albeit in elevated style.The 1300 Taberna serves up Portuguese faves with an upscale chef’s touch, including everything from stewed pork cheeks to roasted codfish. Plus, there are other options–Peruvian, Brazilian, and even burgers. Many spots have patios, so you can delight in the warm light and cool breezes as the evening sets in.
After dinner, now what? You could attend a fado show. Fado, a super-expressive genre of Portuguese singing, is often performed in pubs. It’s certainly a very Lisbon thing to do, plus the art form is recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. Although I’ll be honest—it’s not my favorite. The mournful tones of these melancholy songs are a bit of a downer at the end of the night.
Instead, I would recommend taking a taxi or Uber (about 15 minutes) to Red Frog Speakeasy. Named No. 40 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Bars in 2022, ring the little bell under the namesake, colorful frog. Then settle into a candlelit table, order a creative cocktail, and enjoy the prohibition vibe and jazzy beats for as long as you like.
The small bar is right on Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon’s grandest avenue. If you still have a little energy left at the end of the night, emerge and walk downhill. The flourishing nightlife of Bairro Alto, which continues long into the wee hours, is just a few steps away, so your Lisbon fun doesn’t have to end just yet.
