Some cities are so huge that it can feel almost impossible to wrap your arms—and your mind—around them. Istanbul is definitely like that. As you come in from the airport, descending toward the Bosporus, the sight lines grow vast, and a seemingly unending city spreads out before you: a megalopolis, splashed across two continents.
But spend a little time here, and you learn that, somehow, a city of more than 15 million can somehow feel personal. Get close enough, and this place will embrace you. It is what’s kept me coming back—about a dozen visits so far. And while 24 hours isn’t a lot, if you stay busy, you can experience just a bit of that depth and history and culture—and warmth—in this city where east meets west.