When people picture South Korea, they often think of Seoul, its sprawling capital. But there’s no doubt: Perched at the southernmost tip of the peninsula, Busan has soul too. The country’s second city has grown by leaps and bounds in the last half-century. “This was once just a small fishing town,” a guide told me on a recent visit, noting that after the Korean War and the 1953 ceasefire, people moved down here in droves, away from the border and demilitarized zone. “We’re far away from the 38th parallel.”
These days, Busan is a boomtown. Its metropolitan population of about four million is distributed in dramatic fashion. Sparkling skyscrapers climb sharply up hillsides and curl around curving coves. On all of my three visits, I’ve arrived by water, perhaps the best way to fully appreciate the city’s urban splendor. I pass blue bays, traversed by impossibly high bridges, all of it backed by a skyline that looks like something from the future. It’s a lot to explore in a single day—but here’s a plan for getting the most out of 24 hours in beautiful Busan.
Arrival
While many visitors (like me) arrive for a visit via cruise ship, those flying in will land at Gimhae International Airport (PUS). First opened in the 1970s, with new terminals added later on, the runways at PUS have all the traffic they can handle. A new airport is planned for Gadeok Island, but it’s still years away. Most flights here remain domestic or regional, with nonstop flights to cities like Tokyo, Bangkok, Hong Kong and, of course, Seoul. So your journey from North America will probably include a connection.Morning
Start by surveying this sprawling, undulating metropolis. The Busan Tower provides a birds-eye view of everything. The journey from the airport to the tower will take close to an hour on public transit. A handy escalator from the station carries visitors up the slope from the Busan Metro. By road, the 10-mile trip can take as little as 15 minutes, but very much depends on the volume of traffic en route. (A helpful note for navigation: Because of national security laws, common mapping apps usually can’t provide driving directions in South Korea.)
Constructed in 1973, the Tower is probably Busan’s most iconic landmark, the symbol of the city, rising almost 400 feet into the sky. If the front doors aren’t yet open, get your blood pumping after that long flight by walking the paths of the surrounding Yongdusan Park, atop the “dragon’s head.” There’s a couple museums on site, as well as a floral clock, ceremonial bell, statues, and a Buddhist Temple.
Once you ride the elevator up to the observation deck, the whole city will unfold at your feet. Surrounding green mountains spread out, tongues of land connected by soaring bridges. Plus you’ll see the bustle of the largest and busiest port in the nation.
Then, amble down the hill to the Jagalchi Seafood Market. Mid-morning is the ideal time to visit, while the catch is still super-fresh, but before the heavy midday rush. Probably the largest fish market in the country, the many, many stalls from this glassy, seaside structure spill out onto the surrounding streets.
Now, you probably aren’t looking to slap an octopus or snow crab into your carry-on. But this is an ideal spot to enjoy a late breakfast or an early lunch. First, feast on the sights and sounds, and roam the bustling aisles. Then select your desired aquatic treat from a vendor. They’ll weigh and package it, then accompany you to an on-site restaurant where the chef will pair it with rice and kimchi, and serve the fish dish the way you like it, cooked or sashimi-style.
Afternoon
Spend a little more time on foot wandering the neighboring streets, which are home to even more shops and stalls. Just a few blocks to the north, the Gukje Market sells almost anything you can imagine. Gukje means “international” in Korean, and the market began to take shape in an empty lot just after the Korean War, when new arrivals in town sold anything they could import (or smuggle).Think: Hats and shoes and pants and t-shirts. And tableware, cabinets, towels and mats. Kettles and keychains and stuffed toys. And so much more. Don’t try to find too much order in the glorious chaos. Just enjoy getting lost in the labyrinth of pedestrian streets and lanes, some covered by long, vaulted skylights.
Now, head all the way to the other side of town. On my recent visit, the guide recalled a time when this same trip would take 1.5 hours. Modern improvements have cut that travel time into less than half.Now, while you can get there by Metro, I recommend going by road for this particular trip.
Take the road because of the seven bridges of Busan. You won’t cross all of them, but even just the Gwangan (or Diamond) Bridge is worth the drive. It’s the second-longest bridge in Korea, a suspension bridge that spans over 4.5 miles. The trip across is truly unforgettable, with blue sea on one side and sandy coves on the other. The whole crossing feels a little like flying from shore to shore.
What’s even better is it takes you to the beach. Haeundae is one of Korea’s most popular beaches, a sweep of sand stretching almost a mile long. It’s very popular, to say the least—some 10 million people visit every year. The surrounding district of the same name is one of the most historic in Busan.
If you’ve packed your swimsuit, now is the perfect time to take a quick dip in the shallow waters. Otherwise, take off your shoes and socks and feel the sun-warmed sand between your toes. Then towel off and keep moving—there’s still plenty to do, see, and eat.
Hopefully, you’ve worked up an appetite. If not, continue your stroll, perhaps along the shaded boardwalks that parallel the beach. If you’ve really got momentum, walk or take a short bus ride to nearby Blueline Park. On arrival: Definitely hop on a Sky Capsule. These bright, colorful, happy-looking rail cars travel along a shoreline track elevated as high as 30 feet in the air—a fun little trip that is excellent for photo opps.
Evening
It’s time for a truly local dinner. Korean barbecue (bulgogi) has become popular all around the world. And Haeundae is home to some really fantastic places to enjoy the sizzle and pop.You can take your pick of places. Show Me the Gogi, for example, is simple, clean, delicious, and very popular. Take turns flipping the ribs and marinated slices of beef on the shared grill in the middle of the table. You can cut off portions with the provided scissors. Nobody should ever leave hungry.
That’s a good thing, because there’s still one last, spectacular activity to end the day. You’ve enjoyed the urban panorama from above. Now, see it all from below.
Cap the day with a Suyeong River cruise. Board the boat in a nearby park for a sunset or nighttime voyage. The small vessels first spirit passengers upriver, the lights of the city towering above. Then down and out, into the sea.
You’ll pass under the Gwangan Bridge. Just when you’ve caught your breath, the sky will illuminate with a fantastic final show—fireworks overhead. They’re included in every after-dark trip. Marvel at the spectacle of bright colors bursting over dark waters, as you consider and enjoy the memories of a busy Busan day.
