KISUMU, Kenya—It’s midday at Dunga beach on the shores of Lake Victoria, and Benard Oluoch has just received the catch from fishermen who have come back from a night-long expedition. He is in charge of weighing and selling fish along the shore.
At the shed, the Nile perch is among the biggest fish being weighed here. The locals call it Mbuta, and according to Oluoch, it is currently the most valuable species among the fishing communities on Lake Victoria.





