Fendi’s trademark fur coats included a short blue cape-like construction that bore athletic black-and-white stripes along the bottom, and was worn with thigh-high leather boots.
The overall dark palette was brightened by aquamarine, coral, purple, mustard and turquoise. Bags were furry delights, or stiffer leather with colorful patterns, including one sunset.
Two special guests from Japan delighted Asian visitors at the show, two-meter (6-foot) tall Kigurumi mascots, one a pink female named Piro-chan and a blue boy called Bug-kun. Both are being reproduced in miniature as Fendi’s coveted furry bag bug charms that adorn handbags.
In a nod to the siren call of fast fashion, the bag bugs are being sold immediately on the luxury brand’s website -- but with a catch. There is a limited run of 80.
Layered Romanticism at Costume National
Costume National creator Ennio Capasa says his goal for next winter’s looks was to was create “timeless pieces” for a woman “who looks to slow fashion.”
The silhouette was long and layered for comfort. Capasa underlined a notion of poetic romanticism by pairing a military overcoat with a dress composed of crisscrossing ruffles, creating a metallic dress for day and silken street-wear pajamas printed with photos of flowers snapped by the designer himself.
Capasa is known for his deconstructed looks, and the work here was subtle. Lapels repeated themselves down the front of jackets. Deep slits penetrated the backs of jackets and sleeves, conveying openness when the metallic buttons are left unfastened.
The centerpiece jacket with rounded lapels could be left partially unzipped at the waist, conveying ease.
In its most luxurious form, this partially deconstructed jacket was covered with tiny beaded polka dots. A wool crepe version was worn over a sheer black turtleneck that shimmered like the night sky and a satiny skirt that fell below the knee.
Tacked to Capasa’s mood board backstage were pictures of Bjork and Yoko Ono, providing inspiration as “women who have a strong attitude and personality, while at the same time expressing strong emotion,” the designer said.
Platform boots were the favored footwear, while the color palate was mostly dark with some jewel tones of emerald, ruby and sapphire.
Sensual Sporty
Massimo Giorgetti hewed closely to the Pucci DNA in his second collection for the fashion house, drawing on its sporty heritage, free-flowing lines and sensual prints.
Sport grabbed the opening spotlight with oversized V-neck varsity sweaters, track suits with pants that zipped down the front of the legs, a snug bob-sledder’s body-suit and ski parkas emblazoned with mountain silhouettes.
The athletic wear was harkened back to the days when fashion house’s late founder, Emilio Pucci, a former Olympic skier, created looks worn by the international skiing set in the most exclusive mountain resorts.
Pucci’s more sensual side came out in flowing dresses and skirts in florals and sheers, worn under ample men’s overcoats and sweaters.
The looks had a strongly graphic feel, with bold color blocking in orange, royal blue, burgundy, black and white, with shades of pink and blue.
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