Jake’s Restaurant Atop the Midnight Star

Jake’s Restaurant Atop the Midnight Star
Jake's Restaurant atop the Midnight Star is a magnificent venue for elegant dining. Tables are set with candles in milk glass holders. Tall windows overlook Deadwood's famous Main Street. (Myriam Moran copyright 2013)
John Christopher Fine
10/17/2013
Updated:
4/28/2016

Deadwood, South Dakota is legendary. It wasn’t the raucous television series that made the town, it was gold. When gold was discovered in Deadwood Gulch in 1875, it was the California gold rush all over again. Trouble was the Black Hills were Indian Territory and whites were barred from trespassing by virtue of the Fort Laramie Treaty with the Lakota tribes.

Deadwood became a shanty town, then a lawless settlement, then the center for all manner of vice until and even after the city was organized and annexed. Miners, prospectors, entrepreneurs of all manner and description melded with road agents, gun slingers, gamblers and prostitutes that provided their needs and desires. Eventually Deadwood was tamed. Homestake Mine continued to turn out ingots of gold and silver until it shut down in the 21st Century.

Today’s Deadwood is still a gambling town with casinos at almost every doorstep. Main Street is about what it was in days gone by with unique shops, boutiques and only mannequins of ladies of pleasure propped up behind second floor curtains for effect. The setting is still beautiful, surrounded by mountains that beckon discovery.

Motion picture star Kevin Costner’s parents live in Deadwood. He is often seen in town where locals greet him cordially. Costner founded Tatanka on a hill above Deadwood as tribute to the first people of the land. Tatanka is dedicated as homage for the bison that played a crucial role in early people’s survival. Right on Main Street is Kevin Costner’s Midnight Star. It is as much a museum as it is a casino. The gambling emporium is on the first floor with a grand staircase leading upstairs. The name is derived from the saloon in Costner’s movie ‘Silverado.’

The stairs and balconies are replete with Costner’s costumes and memorabilia from his films. Taking in immense display cases and life size shadow boxes on the walls it is hard to miss familiarity with the dress of characters Costner brought to life on the screen. Costumes from ‘Dances With Wolves’ grace many walls and provide a certain closeness with the history of the place that was lived out in the Black Hills and western forests nearby.

Take the stairs and take time to look around. The unique bar is worth seeing as are many artifacts on display. While there is an elevator to take you up to the fourth floor, using the stairs is prelude to discovery. Jake’s Restaurant is perched atop the hub bub below. The setting itself is out of a movie set. The entrance is down three stairs past a pianist offering classical music. The central dining area is surrounded by a balcony set with tables that offer intimate dining at windows that overlook Deadwood’s Main Street. Costner named the restaurant for Jake, the character he played in ‘Silverado.’

Tables are set with off-white linen cloths, fancy plate ware and burgundy napkins. An oil lamp glitters in a milk glass square. The high ceiling is offset by eight large pillars around the dining room that lend elegance to the room. Seating is in comfortable leather banquettes and leather arm chairs. Care has been taken to preserve ancient exposed brick walls. Wrought iron balustrades separate the upper level around the room from the lower dining well. Light comes in from tall windows and skylights above. Like Midnight Star, Jake’s is a place where eye pleasing appointments create an atmosphere for dining.

Our server Katie Weimer, from Spearfish, SD, presented the 22-page wine list in a leather folder. Nightly red and white wines are offered at market price. Mirrasou Sun Pinot Noir is $6.50 a glass, $26 the bottle. The wine list includes Champagnes from Moet and Chandon’s Dom Perignon for $295 to their White Star for $95. Mumm’s Cordon Rouge from Reins is $80 with sparkling wine from New Mexico for $40 a bottle.

Wines for all tastes and budgets are included in the comprehensive list. Red Beaujolais from Barton and Guestier branded as Right Bank of the Stone River is $23 a bottle. A 2010 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley is $115 the bottle.

White wine lovers will find California Rombauer Chardonnay from St. Helena at $60 and New Zealand 2011 Boulder Banc Sauvignon Blanc for $35.

Jake’s Restaurant opened in 1991 and has been a stellar star in Deadwood dining ever since. Chef Kris Creger was born in Deadwood. “I grew up around the area. I’m 35, have been working at Jake’s for 23 years. I started as a dishwasher when I was 12 years old,” Chef Creger said.

His favorite thing to cook is Cajun seafood tortellini. “I love to eat so I love to cook,” Chef Creger laughed as he prepared shrimp, scallops in red pepper, mushrooms and cheese tortellini with Cajun cream sauce.

Appetizers at Jake’s include escargot topped with parmesan cheese $11. Their bacon wrapped shrimp are prepared with veronic sauce and are a meal in themselves for $15. Buffalo carpaccio, artichoke hearts asiago and fried heirloom tomato caprese round out the appetizers.

Soup or salad is included with entrees. The arugula, with a wonderful lemon vinaigrette, is a good choice. Katie served a bread basket with hot rolls that were fresh and delicious.

Main courses include ribeye steak with caramelized red onions and peppers, grilled asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes $37. There is also the filet mignon topped with mushroom brandy peppercorn sauce and pan roasted carrots $35. The Cajun seafood totellini is $32. Fresh snapper was served over arugula with a buerre blanc sauce, gluten-free, $26. There is also gluten-free duck breast, pan seared to perfection with pear pomegranate relish $29 and chicken parmesan with yellow and red cherry tomatoes and tossed linguine $25.

Coffee and dessert add to the dining experience, relaxing after a wonderful meal. The pianist returned to play classical interludes and the restaurant emptied leaving only a few diners to enjoy the wonderful room. Lighting from a moonlit night drifted through skylights above. A savory hot chocolate cake was served with ice cream and freshly whipped cream.

Deadwood is a must on any traveler’s bucket list. Not to be missed is the Adams Museum and House in town and the Days of 76 Museum just up from the gulch where gold was first discovered in the creek bed. Just as important is fine dining. Jake’s atop the Midnight Star is one of the best dining experiences in the West.

For more information visit their website at www.themidnightstar.com or call toll-free 1-800-999-6482.

John Christopher Fine is a marine biologist with two doctoral degrees, has authored 25 books, including award-winning books dealing with ocean pollution. He is a liaison officer of the U.N. Environment Program and the Confederation Mondiale for ocean matters. He is a member of the Academy of Underwater Arts and Sciences in honor of his books in the field of education. He has received international recognition for his pioneering work investigating toxic waste contamination of our land and water.
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