Israel Journal: On My Block

Customers sit at Nadi Coffee Shop on Schatz Street in Jerusalem. (Genevieve Long/The Epoch Times)

JERUSALEM—A neighborhood is a great thing to have. I know because I come from a tight-knit neighborhood where all the kids for a 10-block radius grew up together from babies to college students. So I learned the value early on of a neighborhood as a place beyond just a collection of buildings, people, and businesses. A neighborhood can truly give you a sense of belonging.

My current corner of the world in Jerusalem is a charming, warm spot full of intriguing characters. I am in the center of town near many interesting sights and a large park. There is a convenience store, a few good restaurants, and two excellent coffee shops just steps from my front door. I almost never have to take public transportation, as many things are within walking distance.

But the best part of Jerusalem seems to be on the block closest to my apartment. I’m using the term block loosely here—not a typical city block, but a zig-zag route of mostly pedestrian-only streets that runs from the top to the bottom of one of the city’s many hills. It is my most frequently used route and favorite resting place.

At the top of my block is Betzalel Street, a busy road that leads to the massive outdoor market. At the bottom of my block is Yafo Street—or Yaffo or Jaffa or Jafa depending on who you ask. We’ll call it Yafo. To walk from Betzalel to Yafo is like moving between worlds—at the top of the hill is local territory, and at the bottom is full-on tourist central: Zion Square.

The main route through Zion Square, Ben Yehuda, can be lovely if you catch it at the right time. But with the onset of summer vacation it has come a crescendo of American tourists. Most of them are what’s called “birthright tourists”—groups of teenage Jews from abroad who come to Israel to explore, learn, and understand their roots and culture. I’m all for learning about roots, but these teenagers travel in huge packs—a disturbing experience under most circumstances, but wading through such a crowd in Jerusalem is a bit too bizarre.

The dividing line between the worlds of tourists and locals is King George Street, a very long avenue that winds through the center of the city. Once you cross King George, the tourists and souvenir shops magically give way to used book stores, quaint coffee shops, and stores with Israeli-designed and made clothing.

Just before the top of the block is my favorite spot in the city. There sits the small laundry shop with the friendly woman who never even has one shekel of change. It is also where a short street once used for cars has been converted for pedestrians and law-breaking motorcyclists. On Fridays, it turns into an arts and crafts fair with colorful tables that gives the whole neighborhood a festive atmosphere.

My favorite coffee shop is also here; a tidy operation that faces the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design, a majestic building constructed at the turn of the 20th century. I like to sit at a particular outdoor table early in the morning. That way I can see the same characters on their daily routines, both animal and human.

The tall orange-haired lady walks her scruffy little dog unleashed past the coffee shop, oblivious to her dog’s manic barking at random people. It especially seems to hate people who are either too tall or have a lot of hair. The man with the goofy German shepherd always has it leashed but takes it indoors where it barks and rolls on the floor, gnawing on the heels of surprised customers.

Having a neighborhood you know and love is more entertaining than watching a good movie, even when it’s in a country you don’t fully understand.