Climate Change Hits Germany, and Winemakers Couldn’t Be Happier

Climate Change Hits Germany, and Winemakers Couldn’t Be Happier
Patrick Kallfels winery harvest wine grapes from their vineyard in the Mosel region on Sept. 24, 2018 near Kroev, Germany. Thomas Lohnes/Getty Images
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The Braunewell family has been practicing the ancient art of viticulture in the picturesque hills above the Rhine River since the middle of the 17th century. This year’s grape harvest, at the end of Germany’s second-warmest summer on record, was their earliest ever.

Across Germany, the “Weinlese” is in full swing, and vintners are delighted with what promises to be an excellent year in one of the unique upsides to global warming. For Stefan Braunewell—who runs his family’s vineyard in Essenheim near Mainz with his grandfather, parent, and brother—that means gathering the region’s famous Riesling crop four weeks earlier than usual.