I recently stood on the Estonian-Russian border. It was freezing cold and snowing lightly. Looking south along the Narva River, I could see the Estonian city of Narva on the right and the Russian city of Ivangorod on the left.
I was standing on Freedom’s frontier. This river, maybe 100 yards across, is the dividing line between a free and democratic Europe and an oppressed and autocratic Russia. The two historical castles on each side served as a stark reminder of how contested this region has been for centuries.

Narva town hall, surrounded by Soviet-era apartment blocks, is one of the few buildings which were restored after World War II. Hannu, Public Domain