There was perfect Wi-Fi connection. My computer was open, a cup of savory brewed coffee on the table beside me. America’s heartland was passing by large picture windows on the top level of a two-story Amtrak Superliner lounge-car. A uniformed bartender served drinks and snacks. Some passengers were playing board games or cards, others enjoying cheese and crackers with a bottle of wine. I don’t know why I didn’t think of this before.
Railroads in America have been part of a cycle. We are dependent on them for freight yet have found it quicker to board jets or decide it is more convenient to drive. The reputation of passenger service on railroads took on the aura akin to bus travel. It was always there, often not a popular choice in this rush-to-get-there world. All of a sudden there has been a rebirth of passenger interest in travel by rail. The reason is obvious. Disgust with airlines has been building for a long time.
Airlines have become arrogant, greedy, taxpayer-supported airbuses. They are crowded, often dirty when short turnaround times keeps cleaners away and not competitive. Airline crews can be mean spirited and nasty. Planes are not on time. Getting to an airport is expensive, loading and unloading a hassle. Check in requires time. Passengers must stand in long lines to go through security then board what have become sardine cans with wings.
Airlines have become monopolistic. While they seem to skirt laws involving collusive practices, it has been clear that they all follow suit. Checked baggage is charged, carry-on baggage is limited. One “El Cheapo” airline charges a fee to carry on a perfectly sized bag only because it has wheels. They all have wheels. Read their small print. A backpack would be OK, not a carry-on with wheels.
There are few if any amenities aboard commercial jets. Food and beverages are pay as you go. One airline suppressed pretzels since they could save money. They did not suppress the airline CEO’s gigantic multi-million dollar bonus. Americans are fed up. We are also fed up with ourselves. We board planes looking like pigs. Casual clothes have become rags that might be appropriate working in the garden or painting a house. Behavior is almost rude. In large measure passenger rudeness is a response to rude airline personnel. Some airline in flight staff should have been removed twenty years ago when they were first burned out and became nasty. Gone are youthfully enthusiastic neatly uniformed, polite, and caring attendants. Gone are flight crews that use the plane’s intercom to point out sights as the plane flies across our beautiful country.
I had a lot of stuff. It could have been shipped at great cost or I could have made the long drive on I 95, stayed overnight one night, then made it from Florida to New York. No way could I fly economically. I checked every aspect out. Shipping my car would cost $800 with one reputable outfit. A commercially licensed driver offered to take my car north for $500 plus fuel and food as well as his motel night. When I got there, a rental car would have cost $600 for a week until I got my own vehicle delivered. I checked out Amtrak.
America’s National Railroad Passenger Corporation, popularly called Amtrak, is celebrating its anniversary. Passenger service in the U.S. was regrouped under Amtrak’s auspices forty years ago. Since 1983 Amtrak has been operating Auto Train between Sanford, Fla., just north of Orlando and Lorton, Va., just south of Washington, D.C. For those that like factoids Auto Train is Amtrak’s most profitable line. It is also the longest train in the world, 3/4 of a mile in length. Two diesel-electric engines pull 33 auto carriers and 19 passenger cars carrying 650 passengers and 350 automobiles when full. Each year Auto Train carries a quarter-million passengers and 130,000 automobiles. The Auto Racks are so large that trucks, vans, trailers, boats, and special carts that haul motorcycles are loaded aboard in two levels.
An often asked question is why Lorton and not New York City or Boston then all the way to Miami. The cars are so big, the train so long that bridges and tracks present obstacles.
Auto Train departs every day at 4 p.m. from Lorton and Sanford. Cars must be loaded by 2:30 p.m. Height restrictions apply so those with high roof racks must check with Amtrak after measuring height. First and foremost in most traveler’s minds is cost. Watch for Amtrak sales. Coach tickets are often on sale for $95. Automobiles run about $194 to $244 depending on length. There are discounts for AAA memberships. Sleeper cars are more expensive. A roomette costs $300. All meals are provided as part of the ticket price.
“They used to provide complimentary wine, cheese and snacks in sleeper class,” a passenger commented to Conductor Anthony Milazzo. The passenger passed into the lounge-car with his coffee. Hot beverages are complimentary with fresh brewed regular and decaf coffee, hot chocolate, and tea. Ice is also available.
“They haven’t done that in three years,” Conductor Milazzo replied. He was completing paperwork as the train gathered speed after leaving Sanford station.
“They used to give us a complimentary bottle of wine with dinner in sleeper class. Remember that dear,” the passenger said as the couple took a seat forward. The bartender came to their table in the lounge-car with a bottle of wine and box of cheese snacks they'd ordered. A bottle of wine from the bar with a snack box costs $25. Drinks run about $7. While complimentary snacks and wine have been eliminated as a cost saving measure, Auto Train has begun a business class service. They will develop special lounge-cars for their business passengers with plush leather seats and other amenities. Perhaps they will even bring back complimentary wine and cheese service in business class.
I didn’t expect the excellent service and fast boarding. It was a comfortable 200 mile drive with my car full of camera equipment and dive gear from West Palm Beach. I pulled into the Sanford station and was greeted by an attendant that checked the train manifest, placed a magnetic sticker on the car, and directed me to park at the terminal. Courteous attendants were present to help in any way. Handicap passengers receive special treatment. Wheelchairs and luggage-carts are plentiful and attendants assist as necessary. There was no need for me to take anything more than an overnight bag and my computer. I put them in a complimentary luggage-cart, left my car in the hands of Auto Train personnel, and went inside the modern air-conditioned terminal.
I stood in a fast-moving line to check in at the ticket counter, present photo identification, and get my boarding pass and meal ticket for dinner. Dinners are served in the dining car at 5 p.m., 7 p.m., and 9 p.m. I received my sleeper berth.
Handicap accessible berths are on the lower level of the two level Superliners. Attendants serve meals in handicap passenger rooms if desired. I was directed to my room by a steward at the doorway who asked passengers if they needed help with their carry-ons. Polite and helpful Amtrak personnel seemed a universal rule. I am used to surly check-in staff at airports, being required to use self-check-in, never getting the machine to work properly then waiting until the one person the airline assigns for ten machines decides to come over.
No TSA body scans and X-rays run by employees that seem to love power. Passengers I saw on Auto Train were mostly older Americans or families traveling together. They were universally well dressed and just as courteous to Amtrak personnel as the staff was to them. No zealot with a personality problem pulled old ladies aside for a pat down search. No one removed bottles of water or shaving cream and razors. This was civilized America again. Passengers got on the train, put carry-on baggage in their rooms in the sleeper class or coach seats then enjoyed the lounge-car and free internet connection.
There are several kinds of accommodations on Auto Train. Coach consists of two large recliners on either side of the aisle. “We took our own pillows and blankets. As soon as we boarded we chose two seats each. The train is never that crowded. With two seats we could stretch out and sleep comfortably,” my neighbors in Florida told me. Tim and Joann are veteran Auto Train passengers. They travel back and forth every season. Once I decided on Auto Train I asked their advice.
“The food in coach is good. There are movies in the coach lounge and we sleep well with our own comfy pillows. We take our favorite drinks along and enjoy the trip,” Tim explained.
I decided to take a sleeper. I was driving alone and wanted to be sure of a good night’s sleep. There are several room options available in sleeper class service. There is the roomette, a 3‘6“ by 6’8” room. Two comfortable facing seats fold into a bed at night as a lower berth. An upper berth folds down. Restrooms are on both levels of the train and showers are on the lower level.
There are also Superliner bedrooms that are larger rooms, 6‘6“ by 7’6”, that have their own enclosed shower, sink, and toilet. These bedrooms can be made into four person suites if required. Superliner family bedrooms are large and accommodate two adults and two children in four berths. Handicap accessible bedrooms are on the lower level and offer in-room toilets and sinks separated by a curtain with plenty of space for a wheelchair. Accessible bedrooms are 6‘9“ by 9’5,” providing ample space.
In-Service Chief Lester Macklin made announcements that provided passenger information. He also indicated when scenic panoramas would afford photo opportunities of beautiful vistas as the train passed over rivers and bays, cities and towns along the route. Staff aboard are experienced. Lester Macklin has been with Amtrak nine years, Conductor Milazzo 32 years. They have fun with passengers. A team of 22 staff Auto Train.
A white haired woman passed through the lounge-car on her way to her sleeper room. “I have only one complaint,” she said. She seemed serious so Lester and Anthony listened intently. “I walk like I’m drunk. I never took a drink in my life.” They all laughed.
“Walk like you’re dancing. Always keep a hand on something like we do. Put a hand on a table, seat back, even the ceiling,” Conductor Milazzo said. The woman was happy with the friendly exchange and laughed.
There was something old fashioned and graceful about this train. I worked away on my computer until my 7-o'clock meal service was called. I walked to the dining car. Serving staff took meal tickets and seated diners at tables with white linen cloths. Black napkins held real polished utensils. Iced tea and water were on each table along with flowers, condiments, and rolls on a separate plate with butter. There was a menu and separate wine list. Beer and other alcoholic beverages were available for purchase. A half bottle of wine is $16. Beers and wine by the glass run about $7.
The menu offered braised beef short ribs with baked potato and vegetables, but also chicken, fish, pork riblets, or vegetarian pasta. A small salad was served with a choice of dressing in individual packets. I chose the short ribs. They were quite tasty. The baked potato came with butter and sour cream. Dessert offerings were cheesecake, pina colada cup, or ice cream with chocolate or strawberry topping. The meal was good. The scenery that passed by the large picture windows on either side of the train glorious. Servers were hospitable and provided every convenience and request with courtesy.
When I desired my bed to be turned down, the steward made it up with clean linen. There were two pillows and a blanket provided in a sealed plastic bag. The linen, blanket and pillows were perfectly laundered and sanitary. I worked a little more on my computer in the roomette. The on-board Wi-Fi was perfect. I read using the room’s reading lights, adjusted air-conditioning to suit, and charged my phone with a plug in the convenience panel. Amtrak provided two bottles of water. The complimentary hot beverage machine with fresh brewed coffee was just down the corridor.
Lester Macklin made a final announcement that requested passengers that wished to talk to use the lounge-car. If electronic devices were to be used he asked passengers to use them with earphones. For those wanting to make or receive phone calls, Lester asked them to be courteous to passengers that wanted to sleep and go to the lounge-car. Lester said no further announcement would be made until 7 a.m. which would be the breakfast first call. The dining room would be open for continental breakfast at 6 a.m. Arrival would be about 9 a.m. in Lorton, Va.
I stretched out in my bed and slept until the 7 a.m. breakfast call. I dressed, washed in the restroom, then went into the dining car. Press buttons between cars enable activation by using a foot or pressing a panel by hand at hip level. Passage between cars is easy.
For breakfast the dining car was again set with white linen cloths. A carafe of orange juice on each table, cereal choices in individual packages, hot bagels served in a basket, bananas, milk, and butter with jellies on the table, along with packaged sweet treats.
Lester announced that we would pass Quantico, Va. The Marine Corps training base was on the east side of the tracks. The sun came up over the bay as we crossed bridges in Virginia. It was a beautiful panorama.
We arrived a little early. We were told to wait until the cars were uncoupled since there would be switching of the Auto Racks. We disembarked and entered the Lorton terminal. Staff were available to provide printed driving directions. Announcements were made as cars with their magnetic numbers were brought out.
For those that wish priority car unloading a $50 fee is charged. Otherwise car unloading takes on average a half-hour. It can be shorter or longer depending on where it is in the carrier. A large SUV with a boat and trailer in tow came out. It was loaded close in time to my car so I knew I'd be next fairly soon. I got my car, loaded my carry-ons, left the lot, made two right turns, and was immediately on I 95 heading home.
I liked the Auto Train experience. It was convenient, easy, economical, and fun. The food was good and the service on every level excellent.
For more information visit amtrak.com/autotrain or call them toll-free at 1-877-SKIP-I-95 (1-877-754-7495) or Amtrak general reservations at 1-800-872-7245.
John Christopher Fine has authored 25 books, including award-winning books dealing with ocean pollution. He also writes for major magazines and newspapers in the United States and Europe. He is a master scuba instructor and instructor trainer and expert in maritime affairs.
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