Commerce Restaurant

Before the Blue Mill Tavern or the Grange Hall, it was a speakeasy at one point in its life. This historical building took its name from the little curved street, known as Commerce Street in the heart of Greenwich Village, hence Commerce Restaurant.

Of course, the first thing that comes to mind when you hear of speakeasy is prohibition and the 1920’s—a major time in American history. During which, significant social changes were taking place: the Great Crash, Babe Ruth, the Jazz Age, the flappers, Lindbergh, and Hemmingway. It was a time for rebellion and reaction and when “Made in America” was strong. A time when change was taking place.

And that is what the owners, Tony Zazula and Harold Moore of Commerce, did. They transformed that space into a sophisticated yet elegant dining place. Walk in and you will be impressed with the interior and the décor. The interior is masterfully restored by a few artisans by installing an original antique Brunswick bar circa 1941, hand-crafted sconces, subway tiling in the bar area, marble mosaic columns in the dining room, and the original terrazzo floors. The seating includes booths restored by a carpenter, who does theatrical movie sets with chestnut leather and tables with handmade black walnut wood tops. Recently, two new murals by David Joel in a style reminiscent of Diego Rivera were added to the dining room. They depict the tale of two sisters, “A Common Ground for Sisters, whose father bought them the adjoining townhouses across the street from Commerce, with a common garden connecting the two properties, hoping to bring the feuding sisters together.

The menu is casual yet sophisticated using traditional techniques. It has few sections: The Market Specials, Things to Share, in addition to the appetizers and the deserts. Everything is cooked the old fashioned way—slow, hearty, and unpretentious with a complex assembly of flavors and textures—a stellar cuisine in a playful and unintimidating experience for the epicure. Chef/Owner Harold Moore, a traditionalist and a veteran of Montrachet, Jean-George’s Mercer Kitchen, and Daniel, told me that “cooking relies on manual skills but it ties into memory too.” The focus is on making simple things very well. In fact, everything my friend and I had was elevating and bringing wonderful memories back—the secret to comfort food.

All ingredients are very fresh and of high quality. Almost everything is made on premise, and there is something for everyone. The bread, for example, a variety of shapes and flavors such as soft pretzels, rolls, ciabatta, and brioche come straight from the oven.

“No matter who you are, you have to be true to your art with love.” Cooking is an art, but chef Harold Moore along with the pastry chef Josue Ramos create an extraordinary menu for a reasonable price.

With so many unique items on the menu, my friend and I decided on some items to share. For starters, we had the 20 Herbs and Letuces with Manchego cheese, olive oil, and lemon salad, and the Mushroom and Fontina Ravioli with caramelized salsify and Parmesan emulsion. Playful and outstanding—the herbs distinct and different with every bite. The Ravioli was beautiful and out of this world. For the main course we shared a dish of braised beef, bone marrow and sliced sirloin steak with crushed cauliflower. Obviously, Moore wanted to give one the taste of different types of beef—the braised beef, bone marrow and the fillet minion, each cooked to perfection and each has its own different feel. Although shared, the portions were substantial without giving you that feeling of heaviness. We were ready for the desert, which is a must. A perfect partnering of chefs work in this kitchen. Chef Moore and Pastry Chef Jasue Ramos create a stunning variety of deserts. We had the dark chocolate soufflé with a touch of passion fruite crème anglaise and the classis apple tarte tatin served with a trio ice cream. Another example of culinary art—steeped in technique, delicious, and artful without being pretentious. It says, “Come as you are and here I am.”  

The place was hopping with vibrant energy and “While savoring each bite, we were thinking how nice it would have been if Fred Astaire was tapping his feet to the tunes of George and Ira Gershwin. But times have changed, and so did the music, but not the food, which is timeless.”

Per person check (three course) ranges from $45 to $65 without drinks.

Commerce is located at 50 Commerce Street

Dinner is Monday through Saturday from 5:30 to 11 p.m.

Sunday brunch is from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.  

For reservations, please call (212) 524-2301

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Recipes

Whole Roasted Chicken to Share

Serves 4

Potato Puree

4 Idaho potatoes, skin on

1 pt cream, boiled

½ lb butter, cold

Boil potatoes in salted water for about 30 minutes or until done

Slit the top of each potato and place them on an oven tray, cook at 250 degrees F. for about 15 minutes to dry them out

Scoop out the insides and put them in a mixer

While mixing, slowly add the cream and butter and season to taste

Savory Bread Pudding

2 cups cream

¼ bunch parsley

¼ bunch thyme

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 pinch Nutmeg

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Salt to taste

3 whole eggs

1 loaf of brioche, large dice

2 onions, sliced and caramelized

¼ lb bacon, cut into lardons and rendered

½ bunch parsley, chopped

½ bunch chives, chopped

Combine the cream and seasonings in a pot and bring to a boil, remove from heat and let steep for 30 minutes

Strain and return to heat, bring to a boil

Slowly temper in the eggs

Cool the liquid and then pour it over the diced brioche, let soak for 1 hour

Toss in the rest of the ingredients and place into a casserole dish

Bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees F. for about 30 minutes or until the top is golden brown herb butter

¼ bunch parsley

¼ bunch chives

3 sprigs tarragon

1-tablespoon thyme

1-cup soft butter

Roughly chop the herbs

Mix together in a food processor until completely combined

Chicken for Two

1 whole chicken

1-cup herb butter, from previous recipe

Release the skin of the chicken breast with a spoon and evenly spread the softened herb butter between the skin and the flesh

Cut off the wingtips and truss the chicken

Season well, especially the body cavity

Roast at 475 degrees F. for 45 minutes or until the juices run clear

Remove the meat from the bones; slice each breast in half and separate the leg and thigh

For each plate, scoop potato puree in the center and place a chicken breast portion with either a leg or thigh.

Serve the savory bread pudding on the side.