If New York’s ubiquitous bodega sandwiches were fancied up, what would they be like? You can find out at Harry & Ida’s Meat and Supply Co. in the East Village, which updates classic deli sandwiches to pack in more intense flavors between the bread.
The Ham and Gravy sandwich, for example, consists of a frittata made with caramelized onions, potatoes, homemade ketchup, smoked provolone, and smoked rosemary oil that adds a powerful whiff of herbaceousness ($7). Because chef Will Horowitz is conscious about sustainability, he is constantly thinking about how to use whole vegetables and animals. All of the breakfast sandwiches are smeared with an umami-loaded “pâté” made with the stems of shiitake mushrooms, seaweed, brown butter, and cream. The ham sandwich is also stuffed with fennel greens—the tops of fennel stalks—for an extra dose of freshness.
Meanwhile, the usual bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich is improved upon with an addictive spread made of cheddar, cream cheese, red onions, and Worcestershire sauce ($6). Just a hint of spiciness goes a long way in heightening the sweetness of the maple-smoked bacon. A layer of barbecue sauce lends a moreish tang.
The Smoked Lox sandwich features smoked horseradish cream instead of the usual cream cheese ($12.50), so the flavors don’t get monotonous. Vinegary, crunchy cornichon kraut adds just the right amount of brightness to make the synergy of flavors complete.
Harry & Ida’s Meat Supply Co.
189 Ave. A (at E. 12th St.)
Breakfast served Saturday & Sunday
9 a.m.–11:30 a.m.