"Time will not dim the glory of their deeds." —General John J. Pershing, U.S. Army
As an American visiting the Philippines, no trip is complete without a pilgrimage-tour of the Manila American Cemetery and Memorial.
This hallowed park honors the 17,006 United States and Filipino heroes who made the supreme sacrifice for their country—their young lives in Pacific Theater operations during World War II. I've been to many cemeteries and taken active parts in funerals, but what really touched me greatly was seeing row after row after row of so many graves filled with the bodies or parts of so many young people. Though they didn't die in vain and all of them are undoubtedly heroes, it was just so sad to consider that the mean age of these brave was about 20.
Fallen Heroes
The cemetery-memorial is located about six miles southeast of Manila and can be reached easily by taxicab. The memorial park covers 152 acres and is America's largest overseas military cemetery. Along with the war dead, the numbers climb to 36,285 military personnel when including those listed as missing in action and hence presumed dead. The graves of 570 Filipino scouts who offered their supreme sacrifice are here, too.
Upon entering this field of crosses and a few stars, you will see buildings that have the names of all the dead and missing soldiers, sailors, and marines engraved on the walls. The fallen heroes who won their country's highest honor, the Congressional Medal of Honor, have brightly painted stars before their names. There are 28 Medal of Honor winners buried here. Throughout the day, chimes ring out from the bell tower honoring these fallen heroes and signifying their victory over tyranny.
Death comes to us all, as the old saying goes, and to die in battle must be particularly hard. Although this writer is no stranger to bloodshed, I was moved when I saw the tombs of so many who died so horribly young. They reminded me of my own brushes with violent death, yet my experiences seemed miniscule when compared with the brief lives and deaths of these heroes who lay underground. Those "young" graves sent shivers up my spine. Who in their right, or even their wrong minds, would ever want to engage in a war? Of course, WWII was to be the "Last Crusade" and the cause was a noble one, but war is still a very messy and painful affair.
A Peaceful Resting Place
The war cemetery, like cemeteries everywhere, is a grim place. However, the cemetery's designers did their best to render this place more pleasant with its beautiful buildings, neatly arranged gravestones, manicured lawns, chapel, map rooms, and country club-like surroundings. Still, it is a necropolis, an abode of the dead, a reminder of our own fragile mortality.
One of the best things about this cemetery, which is just a stone's throw from upscale Makati, is that the Manila street noise is absent. The American memorial park is an oasis of peace. Visitors will get a much needed noise break plus a generous slice of American history while wandering the grounds.
Another plus is that the cemetery has the only public comfort room that I'm aware of in the city that's quite clean with hot water, soap, towels, clean floors and walls, and toilet paper a-plenty. Locating sanitary washrooms during travel is something I consider vital.
The 152-acre cemetery is situated on top of a plateau. The American cemetery has interred the remains of people killed in New Guinea, the first Battle of the Philippines as well as the second battle after Douglas MacArthur made his triumphal reentry in 1944, China, Burma (Myanmar), India, and in other Pacific Theater battles. About one-third of all of those missing in action during World War II are identified there.
The official seals of the United States and its individual states and territories are hand-carved on the floors. The bas relief that cover the front of the Central Chapel has St. George killing a dragon at the bottom. In the middle, blind Justice, with her scales, is joined by other potent symbols of freedom. At the very top of this carving stands "Mother Mary" with the Holy Infant in her strong arms. The Allied dead from other countries along with some non-service personnel are interred there, too.
In one of the memorial buildings there's the Central Chapel replete with a pre-Vatican II-style altar and two kneelers for private prayers in front. I knelt and said a rosary as my party wandered about the spacious green grounds to take pictures, or stood in silent awe amid the white markers that signified the mortal end of so many young people's lives. The actual headstones are made of marble and are aligned in 11 plots in a circular pattern. Groves of tropical trees and other shrubbery decorate the grounds, making it a truly beautiful place. The cemetery is a popular field trip destination for Philippine school children who want to learn more about those who died in defense of their freedom.
A circular memorial contains all the names of service personnel listed as missing in action engraved on marble columns. There are also huge wall mosaics depicting the many Pacific battles of that war. The buildings hold a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. The memorial is maintained by the American Battle Monuments Commission. All buildings and grave markers are made exclusively from Trani limestone.
Should You Choose to Visit
If you plan to visit the cemetery, you can contact Superintendent Larry A. Adkison or Assistant Superintendent Hubert Caloud, Manila American Cemetery, PSC 523, Box 5, FPO AP 965159-1800, or at supt@abmc-ar.org; Phone: 011-632-844-0212, or FAX: 011-632-812-4717.
To contact them from the Philippines, the address is: Manila American Cemetery, #1 Lawton Avenue, Taguig City, Philippines. Visiting hours are daily from 6 a.m. until 5 p.m. except Christmas and New Year's Days. During open hours, staff members are on hand at the Visitors Building to answer questions and escort relatives to the graves of their loved ones. The cemetery is located near McKinley Road, Ft. Bonifacio in Manila. In Manila, the phone number is 521-1687.
If you have any questions or are planning a trip to the Philippines and need additional information about the American Cemetery or any other Philippine or Asian site, please write me and I'll do my best to assist you. I can be reached at: vamaxwell@yahoo.com or vamaxwell2@gmail.com. Happy Fourth of July, and pray for our service personnel.
 HALLOWED HALLS: Marble columns bear the names of the honored dead and missing. (Fred C. Wilson III)
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 SYMBOLS OF DUTY, FREEDOM, AND COMPASSION: A monument in front of the chapel depicts St. George killing a dragon at the bottom, blind Justice in the middle, and the Mother Mary with the Holy Infant in her arms in bas relief. (Fred C. Wilson III)
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