Desolate shelves and large "closing down sale" posters usually indicate a business on its last legs. But the buzzing throngs enjoying dim sum, sushi and nasi lemak in the food court seem to tell a different story. This is Oriental City in north London—a day before it closes after more than 10 years of trading.
Oriental City is a south east Asian institution, an indoor trading nexus where Vietnamese take-aways rub along next to Japanese pottery vendors, and a large, Korean-run supermarket supplies food neatly labelled by region.
It started life as a Japanese shopping centre called Yaohan Plaza, but became regarded by many as "the real Chinatown". The food is as authentic as it gets in London, served in a bustling food court accompanied by multi-lingual, pictorial menus – but now its customers will have to look elsewhere for their Asiatic treats.
A day before it shuts, though, the place is lively, as families and traders come to say one last farewell. A walk around the food court takes in Vietnamese, Korean, Malay, Tamil, Cantonese, Japanese and Thai food, with spaces to sit in high demand around Formica covered tables.
"The food's very authentic," says Malaysian food stall attendant Syabil Yahya, as he tends to an outdoor barbecue sizzling with satay sticks. "In the past few weeks there have been a lot of customers and this has been the busiest week. A lot of people are coming here to eat as much as they can, so they're definitely going to miss it!"
In November 2006 Oriental City was bought out by development company Development Securities who planned to replace it with a B&Q, flats and a school. But many tenants were left doubting how and where they would be relocated to, and a campaign was launched to save Oriental City. Footballer and long-time customer Ian Wright met with then-Mayor Ken Livingstone to object to the redevelopment plans, and a petition gathered over 10,000 signatures.
An Oriental City Tenants Association was formed, led by China City restaurant owner Yip Fai Lui. He told the BBC: "We have been piggy in the middle while investors have bought and sold Oriental City to make a quick buck. We are all very itchy about the future and worried that after 10 years of building up this community, we will have to watch it disappear overnight."
An extension was granted until May 2008, but on June 1st, Oriental City closed its doors for the last time. "It breaks my heart because this is my livelihood," says Terumi Tomita, owner of Japanese porcelain shop Utsuwa-No-Yakata, which has been at Oriental City since 1993. "I came from Japan to build my business and now we don't have anywhere else to go."
"Oriental City is the real Chinatown," she adds. "It has become a centre for all east Asian businesses." Internet forum users were quick to lament Oriental City's demise, with Des from Croydon saying: "I believe this was the last bastion of a truly culturally diverse place in London. The experience of eating there on a busy afternoon is rivalled only by Asia for its intensity and sheer chaos. Where else is there such cultural harmony in London?"
At the time of close many of the 40 or so businesses were still looking for somewhere to go. Some will disperse elsewhere for good and some will have no choice but to go out of business. The supermarket is moving to Bayswater, and there is vague talk of Chinese supermarket Wing Yip in Cricklewood expanding to accommodate some of the stall holders.
One thing is for certain: it will be a long time before such an array of south east Asian eateries will come together in one place in London again.
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