Ursula Froehmer's store, called simply "Tracht and Heimat" [Homeland] is the Munich hub where one shops for authentic and creatively designed traditional Trachten fashions. The colors and multitude of materials of the garments on display are very impressive.
There is no dusty or outmoded feeling in this store. Upon entering, one feels at home, ("dahoam" in Bavarian) among the wooden interior and furnishings. As the owner floated down a small staircase, she showed how a dirndl can enhance the appearance of the wearer and make her look powerful, yet elegant and youthful.
Only Bavarian Dialects are Spoken in this Store
Clothing, language, and culture are one as Froehmer and her staff speak only Bavarian in all its different forms: the ancestral Bavarian, cultivated Bavarian, and the day-to-day Bavarian that sounds almost like High German.
The native from Munich tells her life's story, which is laced with humorous anecdotes. Her parents, who only sold bridal fashions, lived and worked in the section of the building that is now her workshop. She was born and grew up in this house. She humorously tells of the time when her father handed her a needle with thread tied to it but not threaded through the eye of the needle. The needle got stuck in the material, and she was so distraught that she swore that she would never sew again. So, at the age of 21, Froehmer became a paralegal; but after just two years of working with an attorney, she realized that it was not a job that she wanted to do for the rest of her life.
Bavarian Culture and Tradition Neglected
After Froehmer heard about "home based work" in Austria, she decided to start such a movement in Bavaria. In her eyes, Bavarian culture and tradition had been shamefully neglected and one could learn much from the Austrian initiatives. She decided to become the driving force in preserving the Trachten, traditions, dialects, music, and anything else associated with Bavaria.
She couldn't find anyone competent in re-introducing Bavarian traditions and culture, so she started from scratch, without help from either the Bavarian or the Munich governments.
At first, it was difficult and her life was filled with ups and downs. After 28 years, she is the undisputed local "Platzhirschin" when it comes to the Trachten fashion and Munich's department stores refer their customers to the "Tracht and Heimat" store when asked where to buy traditional Bavarian garb.
Sticking to One's Principles
Only tailored, handmade, made-to-order or repaired clothing is sold at Froehmer's store. Her customers include everyday people, soon to be married couples, Trachten clubs, and costume designers for films and television shows.
"People who want authenticity and genuine Bavarian products come to my store. They expect me to be an expert. From the day I opened my store I understood that I had to give individual advice to my customers," said Froehmer.
While sampling the wares in Froehmer's store, one is told some interesting facts, and any misunderstandings about Bavarian Trachten are corrected. For example, each Tracht has its own regional flare and originates from a specific area. Different regions or towns have developed their own Tracht and Trachten worn in Munich have their origin from different areas.
The "Dirndl" is not a Tracht, but a type of dress that can be found everywhere in the Alps. It consists of a corset-like top, a blouse, skirt, and an apron. In older times, the standard length of the skirt was a "tankard height above ground," about 27 centimeters. Today, the wearer chooses the length of the skirt.
The popularity of the Dirndl rises during Octoberfests, such as the one at the Hilton in Paris. Yet, sadly, the Bavarian ladies fashions are used more and more for masquerade parties. Froehmer admits that she feels embarrassed for those who wear Dirndls that are tasteless and look vulgar at the Munich October festival, as she feels they lack any sense of style.
Froehmer shares some of her thoughts, such as "The latest trend is that one wears a Dirndl if one goes for a walk in the meadows. Unfortunately, one sees most of the time mini skirt lengths, coarse knit stockings, Haferlshoe [clogs], all topped with a jean jacket."
Froehmer feels that Bavarian weddings have really dragged down the traditional Dirndls. "In the past, the people wore their best clothes to such an event and the clothing was made of velvet and silk. Linen was mainly worn by farmers and so was frowned upon," explained Froehmer.
She continued, "In the past, the white blouse was actually an undershirt. It was worn when working in the fields and so it was visible to other people. An urban lady wore clothing made of more elegant materials."
An example of a lady-like Tracht is the corset-like top called a "Mieder," which is most popular in Munich, and was first worn by waitresses in the 18th century. Typically there is a black "Mieder" with silver hooks and under it a one-piece dress of any color. It is corded with a silver chain or a band, depending on the occasion.
"Munich Miederdress is Always Classy"
Today, the Dirndl has become a three-piece variable dress (Mieder, skirt, and a matching blouse). This is the most popular outfit sold at "Tracht and Heimat." Its popularity comes from the fact that "it always looks stylish, no matter if the person is corpulent, thin, old, or young," said Froehmer.
When it comes to men's wear, it is not known why the Miesbacher Tracht is known as the stereotypical Bavarian outfit. The most popular theory is that Trachten clubs and immigrants brought this type of clothing with them. "Most likely the clubs were the driving force behind this trend," suggested Froehmer. The Miesbacher Tracht requires a short "Lederhose" [leather trouser], grey loden coat, and a "Seppel hat" [a hat with a feather], which, in Ms. Froehmer's opinion, is not truly "representative of all of Bavaria."
Lederhosen are available in different types. One can get an elegant version that has long legs or a short one with a bib; and there are different types of embroidery—all are available with or without suspenders.
The shop also offers the classic frock coat decorated with silver buttons or a short jacket with a waistcoat that are worn with the Lederhosen.
"Gefatter-Frock" for Married Men
The elegant "Gefatter-Frock (old man's frock coat) has been around for a long time. It gives the man a stately look and is popular among many of the shop's clients. This frock coat was worn only by married men in the past. Ms. Froehmer said laughingly "Practical. One knew right away if the man was available." In the past, bachelors had to wear a short coat.
"My clients are for me what represents an ideal world and the reverse is also true. For example, the bridal couple will send me pictures of their wedding and when the babies arrive, they send me pictures of them too," said Froehmer.
"My customer has to be able to look in the mirror and think, 'That's me and I like myself,'" said Froehmer in Bavarian dialect.
Holding on to her principles is what lead to much of her success. Froehmer's customers appreciate the valuable information about Trachten fashions—including when it is appropriate to wear them.
People who had never worn Trachten in the past come to this store whenever they need something for a special Bavarian occasion. They know that they will be served well. They are being treated to a historical perspective of the Bavarian Trachten, and they need to feel comfortable in what they wear and not feel as if they are in a costume.
Some Trachten Definitions
Loden: A durable, waterproof, coarse woolen fabric, deep olive green in color, that is used mainly for coats and jackets because of its warm and temperature-adjusting qualities.
Lederhose: Lederhosen are usually suede shorts that often have suspenders, and are worn by both Bavarian men and boys. For special occasions or when worn by the wealthy, this garment is made from deer or stag hide. The less expensive kind is fashioned from calf or cowhide. In the past, all Lederhosen were custom-made and so durable they were meant to last a lifetime. The special buttons on the Lederhosen were used to attach the man's stockings. Traditionally, the Lederhosen have a special pocket for holding a hunting knife.
Leferl: Knitted calf warmers made from rough wool, that are worn with the short Lederhosen. In the past, they were footless. The men wore the shoes in their bare feet. Today, the leg warmers are offered with matching socks.
Haferlschuh: A type of clog, developed by Franz Schratte in 1803. It is an open-backed shoe inspired by the goat hoof. With a slightly elevated heel, deep cut around the ankle, and a boatlike front, the clogs gave the wearer stability, which made them comfortable when mountain climbing. This shoe developed into a timeless classic. English Alps visitors in the 19th century introduced them to the rest of the world.
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