Taiwan (officially, the Republic of China) is an island slightly larger than Massachusetts and Connecticut combined, with a population of 23 million. It is located in the center of the booming Asia-Pacific region 80 miles from Mainland China. Taiwan's modern history goes back about 400 years, to the day when the first Western ship passed by the island, and Jan Huygen van Linschoten, a Dutch navigator on a Portuguese ship, exclaimed "Ilha Formosa!" (Beautiful Island).
The island's aboriginal community migrated to Taiwan over 12,000 years ago. The Dutch, who took over Taiwan during the 17th century, were evicted by a Chinese pirate in the latter part of the century. The pirate, in turn, was defeated by the Manchus 20 years later. Taiwan was largely left to its own devices for 200 years. During that time, Chinese mainlanders came to Taiwan fleeing wars and famine. But they did not come as representatives of Peking, itself ruled by the Manchus, a people from regions northeast of China. The island had been part of Imperial China for a period of only eight years, from 1887-1895 under the Manchus, before war broke out between China and Japan.
China was defeated and Japan occupied Taiwan. After the Japanese surrender in World War II, Taiwan (formally Formosa) came under Chinese rule in 1945. In 1949 when communists took over mainland China, the Nationalist leader Chiang Kai-Shek with millions of his supporters retreated to Taiwan and set up a new government. Since then, Taiwan has developed into a modern technological society. It is now the 14th strongest economy in the world and has recently constructed the world's tallest building. The contrast between the new Taiwan and the rituals and traditions of the old Taiwan that still exist drew us to this beautiful island.
Taipei
Our visit to Taiwan began in Taipei, the capital city. Our first taste of Taipei was a Cantonese breakfast, highlighted by delicious rice porridge. Our first impression of this dynamic city was the Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines. A typographical map of Taiwan showed the territories and villages of the Aborigine tribes. Each tribe had a section of the museum devoted to its history and culture. Illustrated panels displayed the traditional costume and the historical origins of each ethnic group. Each group's styles of dress, decoration and preferences for particular colors and patterns enabled us to appreciate indigenous people's unique lifestyles.
Lunch later was dim sum, consisting of a variety of steamed or fried dumplings, stuffed with an assortment of either savory or sweet mixtures, along with bite-sized items of meatballs, spareribs, spring rolls and shrimp. Green tea was served.
The National Palace Museum, one of the top five museums in the world, holds the largest collection of Chinese artifacts, nearly 650,000 items. The collection included bronze, calligraphy and painting, ceramics, Buddhist artifacts, curios and jade. For more than 8,000 years, the Chinese have loved and valued jade. One of the highlights was a piece of emerald green and white jade crafted into a realistic-looking Chinese cabbage. The National Palace Museum houses countless numbers of dynastic China's greatest cultural treasures.
The architectural design of the 101 Building, the tallest building in the world with 101 floors is awesome. There are eight tapered tiers emerging from a pyramid base and topped with a circular column and radio tower. A mass shopping mall with designer brands, the latest international fashions and gourmet restaurants is located on the first floor. Observatory elevators are Guinness Record-breaking high speed pressurized elevators, taking only 37 seconds to reach the 89th floor. Atop the Observatory we were equipped with pre-recorded audio listening devices and could listen and view the city from every direction. That evening we enjoyed the famous Mongolian barbecue in a northern style Chinese restaurant. We were treated with a hot pot of soup in a charcoal pot with a chimney at our table. Ingredients included chicken marrow, tomatoes, scallion, garlic, ginger and other vegetables. When it mixes and boils, a tasty soup is made. The next course was a buffet setup with different meats, vegetables and hot and cold sauces. After making your selections, your food is taken to the chef who then mixes and cooks everything on a barbecue stove.
A Trip to the East Coast
The following morning we flew to the East Coast City of Hualien. The day was to be devoted to the Taroko Gorge, known for its sheer marble cliffs, deep gorges, winding tunnels and the Liwu River, which flows through its craggy landscape. One of the most impressive sights was the Taroko Gorge waterfalls. Along the Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail (a half hour walk), we enjoyed the marble gorges, the rivers and the cliffs. Outside the tunnel was the Eternal Spring Shrine Trail. A plaque told the story of the Shrine workers who lost their lives on the construction of the road. There are many hiking and scene trails. One steep trail led to a cave shrine carved into a rock while another led down to the water where a wide variety of rock plants lined the shore. The only hotel and restaurant in this magnificent Park was The Grand Formosa Taroko Hotel, with international and local cuisine.
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Our overnight in Hualien was the five-star Parkview Hotel, with spacious guest rooms that included a bathroom with a bathtub and a separate shower stall. The Garden Court Western Restaurant served a buffet of local and international cuisine. It is the only restaurant in Taiwan with a high floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the landscaped manmade waterfall. After dinner we went to the Ami Cultural Village and attended a lovely performance of an aboriginal cultural dance. The East Rift Valley runs from just south of Hualien to just above the southeast-coast city of Taitung. On our four-hour drive from Hualien to Taitung, along the Northeast Coast Scenic Highway, we viewed the natural beauty of the countryside, lush rolling hills, beaches, fishing villages, rice fields and tea and fruit plantations. This scenic drive took us to the scalloped footbridge, built to resemble a dragon. By early afternoon we arrived at the Royal Hotel Chihpen Spa, an upscale hotel in the popular Jhihben hot springs resort town with various indoor, outdoor and in-room hot springs. There were separate indoor areas for men and for women who prefer their hot springs in the nude.
Green Island
There are two ways to reach Green Island—by air or by sea. The flight from Taitung to Green Island was under one hour. Once known as "Fire Island," this island is best known for its rare saltwater hot springs. Saltwater hot springs are so rare that they are found only in two other places in the world—on the Japanese island of Kyushu and in Northern Italy. Chaojih Saltwater Hot springs on Green Island are fed by seawater. Among the tidewater reefs that line the southeastern shore of Green Island lie pools of green water heated by a bubbling hot spring. The spring is fed by sea water that filters deep into the earth, where it is heated, pressurized and sent surging back to the surface.
An 11-mile-long road encircles Green Island. From the visitor's center you can walk to the lighthouse. A former prison, which is now part of The Human Rights Memorial Park, displays a plaque on the outside Memorial wall with the names of all former political prisoners. The west coast takes you to a steep path that leads to a pagoda and panoramic views of the island and we were amazed at this island's beauty. There are both hotels and guest houses (clean and affordable) on the island. Our overnight was a cottage overlooking the water at the Green Island Club. The easiest way to get around is to use the tourist bus service or rent a bicycle or motorcycle at a nominal fee per day. Snorkeling on Green Island is extremely inexpensive and includes basic equipment rental (boots, fins, mask and snorkel). Diving arrangements must be made in advance as certification is necessary. A ferry service takes you back to Taitung, a ride that is just shy of an hour and can get a little bumpy. If you are prone to seasickness you should consider taking an anti-seasickness pill a half hour before departure.
On to Kaohsiung and the Buddha's Light
From Taitung we drove to the resort town of Kenting, which recently opened The National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium. There were two excellent exhibits—Waters of Taiwan and The Coral Kingdom. In the Waters of Taiwan, you enter an underwater tunnel that makes you feel you are actually underwater with reef sharks, stingrays, manta-rays, sunfish, snapper, dolphin fish and much more. In the Coral Kingdom you begin in a floor to ceiling curving water tank teeming with radiant colors of corals, colorful schools of fish and other inhabitants. The most magnificent section contained the Beluga whale, one of the largest creatures on this planet. From Kenting we continued to the second largest city in Taiwan—Kaohsiung. Our overnight was the Howard Plaza Hotel Kaohsiung, featuring large comfortable guest rooms, six fine restaurants and four levels of international shopping boutiques.
Foguangshan (Light of Buddha Mountain) is the center of Buddhism in southern Taiwan. Located northeast of Kaohsiung, the main road that leads there goes by many fruit orchards. Long before you reach the gate to the mountain, complex giant statues of Buddha can be seen from a distance. This entire mountain has been developed into a complex of temples, halls and gardens. Hundreds of gilded Buddha images stand in line at this monastery. The Buddhist Cultural Museum holds a priceless collection of ancient and contemporary Buddha images. It is a remarkable place of shrines and meditation halls, pavilions, gardens, ponds, grottoes, libraries and art galleries.
Alishan
Alishan is high up in the mountains in Central Taiwan. The Alishan National Scenic Area is famous for its riveting sunrises and Railway Lines. The Alishan Forest Railway runs twice a day from Chiayi to Alishan. Our unique way up the mountain was by car. Climbing 7,200 feet on a winding road was breathtaking. We arrived and checked into the Alishan House, a quaint hotel with charming rooms set high in the mountains. A three-piece band was playing easy-listening music in the bar that could be heard in our rooms.
The main attraction of Alishan is to see sunrise over Jade Mountain. It is cold on the mountain so Alishan House supplied us with fur-hooded jackets. At 4:20 a.m., from Alishan's railway station, we started off to the top of Jade Mountain and waited until 5:10 a.m. for the sun to rise. A thick blanket of clouds covered the eastern sky that day and there was no sunrise.
Alishan is also known for its alpine forest. A short walk from the Alishan House led us to the Plum Tree Gardens with its marvelous display of flowers. Continuing down the road was the tree trail, where we saw trees over 2,000 years old and the thousand-year old Three Generations Tree (a massive cypress crowned by a 10-foot-high second tree). It was beautiful and peaceful walking in the alpine forest.
Ending a Marvelous Visit
In the late afternoon we flew from Chiayi to Taipei for a two-night stay. The Beitou district is known throughout Taiwan as a premier center for hot-spring bathing. The abundance of hot springs, mountain scenery and historic sights make Beitou one of the most popular tourist destinations in Taipei. My husband was in Beitou over twenty years ago and remembers sulfur hot springs rising from the ground. A hot springs boom and the arrival of an MRT line (subway) in the 1990s revived Beitou. Most of these sulfur areas are now covered with modern hotels. The Beitou Spring City Resort, just 30 to 40 minutes drive from Taipei, is the most luxurious hot spring experience in Taiwan. All guest rooms are arranged to optimize the breathtaking views. The Pavilion Spa Club facilities include an open air garden hot spring, indoor hot spring, sauna, fitness center, outdoor swimming pool and much more.
Back in Taipei we visited the National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, which houses photographs and memorabilia of the revolutionary leader; the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall houses art exhibits, libraries, concerts, theater events, cultural events, Tai Chi and jogging. Changing of the guard takes place every hour at both Memorial Halls. The Grand Hotel is a Taipei landmark with a magnificent facade of red columns and a yellow-tiled roof. The inside is as beautiful as the outside.
Our last stop was the Giwado Chinese Medicine United Clinic. After a long week of touring, a full body massage brought us physical and mental relaxation. We were wrapped in towels with our clothes on and for 30 minutes our back, shoulders and head were vigorously massaged. After our feet were washed, the bottom of our feet and ankles were massaged for another 30 minutes. It was completely marvelous and a perfect end to a wonderful visit.
For more information about Taiwan, please visit: www.taiwan.net.tw or call the Taiwan Visitors Association at 212-867-1632.34.
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