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"Have you eaten yet?" (Chih Fan Le Me?") instead of "How are you?" ("Ni Hao Me?") is the way of the Taiwanese. This is part of the Chinese culture—they love to eat. It's as if "no food, no life."
Culinary Beginnings
Taiwanese food consists of the old and the new, of East and West. The area's diverse cuisine has been contributed to by the various immigrants who settled in the region and, because of historical and political reasons, things borrowed from different regions of mainland China—Beijing, Guangdong, Sichuan and Shanghai.
In the late 1940s, when the Kuomintang government and its troops retreated to Taiwan after defeat on the mainland by the communists, a large number of chefs from all parts of China were part of the exodus. These culinary masters brought their knowledge of regional styles with them, and many opened restaurants, giving the Taiwanese a whole new range of dining options.
The greatest influence on Taiwanese seafood cuisine came from Japan. After WWII the Japanese ended 50 years of rule in Taiwan and left behind a culinary tradition in which the raw material becomes most important. However, Japanese food is served with a Taiwanese twist, giving it a local flavor. For example, toro—which is very expensive in Japan—has become a common dish. In Japan toro is usually served raw but in Taiwan there are many different ways of cooking the toro. It is served in a variety of ways—steamed, fried with black pepper or grilled. Although Taiwanese cuisine is dominated by Chinese influences, the island's aboriginal tribes and early settlers also contributed to its modern cuisine.
The Hakka of China's Fujian Province were among the first people to settle in Taiwan, arriving as early as 1000 A.D. The Hakka generally settled in the northern part of Taiwan, while other immigrants from China's Fujian Province settled in the southern part of the island. During the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) people from Fujian settled in the costal city of Tainan. Fujian immigrants created a street food culture representing the early Taiwanese lifestyle.
Known as Ilha Formosa, the beautiful island, Taiwan is a treasure trove of culture and tradition. The Taiwanese have taken the various cultures, people and lifestyles and incorporated them into the cuisine and eating spaces. Anyone who has ever been to Taiwan will tell you that the Taiwanese love to eat and drink. As a result of this obsession, a fusion of exciting flavors and traditional tastes was created.
Mouth-Watering Exhibitions
The Taiwanese are constantly trying new recipes and ideas. Since the Taiwanese come from many different places, they have an open mind, are accepting of change and like new things. I was told that every time you go to Taiwan, you will see a new fruit, a new vegetable and, hence, a new recipe.
In August this year, I attended the 17th Taipei Chinese Culinary Exhibition where I saw some of the most exquisite food displays. Since 1989, Taiwan's innovative chefs have displayed their culinary expertise and creativity at the Taipei Chinese Culinary Exhibition at the Taipei World Trade Center. It is one of the most important culinary shows in Asia.
In the mainland China exhibit, the "Water Banquet" of Luoyang was selected as the main theme since each year a special regional cuisine or style of food is introduced. This entry was a Royal Banquet from the Tang Dynasty some 1,300 years ago inspired by Empress Wu Zetian, China's only female emperor, once a Luoyang resident.
As the story goes, the empress wanted to have swallow nest soup but the main ingredient was missing. A search was conducted, but a thousand-year-old turnip weighing over 20 kg (about 44 lbs.) was found instead and presented at Wu Zetian's court. The master chefs in the imperial kitchen took part of the turnip, cut it into strips and blended it with pork and other flavors. After cooking it for eight days, they were able to create Luoyang Agar—a dish resembling bird's nest soup that is always served at the start of any Water Banquet. This banquet comprises 24 dishes of cold appetizers, hors d'oeuvres and main courses.
The Water Banquet dishes were refined and developed over centuries, combining local ingredients in broths to help residents stay healthy and fit. It is known as the "Water Banquet" because of the predominance of soups and watery dishes, which were thought to be well suited to the very dry desert-like climate of the Luoyang region.
From the "Land of Plenty" you will see Mother Tian's Recipes. This group represents a legion of wives and mothers around Taiwan who have joined together under the auspices of various local agricultural associations to both refine their own culinary skills and develop an entirely new line of food that centers on the three core principles of value, health and good taste. This year, the Council of Agriculture hired professional chefs to teach their culinary secrets to the many Madame Tians around Taiwan. They prepared food across the island, from the north to the south.
Hakka Cuisine
Hakka food represents the hard work and thrifty nature of the Hakka people. The food tastes very natural as there is very little seasoning and no artificial flavoring added to it. Hakka cuisine from mainland China is spicy but Taiwan's Hakka cuisine is salty, sweet and sour.
The Hakka people were traditionally poor and often transient. Their humble, migratory lifestyle is reflected in their cuisine. Due to their thrifty nature, most of the foods are preserved. After preservation, be it sun-dried or salted, it can be kept for about one year. The preservation methods prevent spoilage. One popular Hakka dish is Xiao Feng, which consists of three-layered pork. The pork is cut into many small pieces for the dish and is then cooked with preserved bamboo shoots, which again developed out of thriftiness. The Xiao Feng then needs only Hakka seasoning—onion, garlic, soya sauce and wine—and it will be fragrant and tasty.
One of the signature dishes of the Hakka is stir fry, which can be kept and eaten for quite a number of days. The more it is fried the more delicious it becomes. The Hakka also use cuttlefish, and some people add dried tofu or various other ingredients. Hakka cuisine has enjoyed a revival in Taiwanese culinary circles as more and more palates discover the simple yet tasty peasant fare.
This year the contest was geared toward Taiwan's local chefs and students instead of the international chefs who were invited to the exhibition last year. The exhibition featured tastier and more innovative snacks than ever before. The winners of this culinary contest will represent Taiwan in the 2007 World Culinary Competition.
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