Sichuan is a province located in the west of China. It's a place of outstanding natural beauty and frenetic activity as 100 million people go about their daily lives. Most inhabit the fertile lowlands of the east where the climate produces abundant harvests all year round.
The area is surrounded by mountains. To the north is lush vegetation with world-class nature reserves and to the west is Tibet with its towering mountains, glaciers and endless steppe. Much of the province is located in mountainous areas, which means high altitude living, bad roads and no trains.
This inaccessibility has helped to keep some of Sichuan's rich cultural past intact and you'll find many different minorities, including a large population of Tibetans. There is a vast array of rare flora and fauna, and Sichuan is famous as the last major natural habitat of the giant panda, as well as home to the snow leopard and golden monkey.
Considering the population density and the relative poverty in which most people live, the crime rate is very low. Punishments for crimes against foreigners are severe and the Chinese have a general respect for outsiders. English is a compulsory subject at all schools, so when inevitable communication problems occur, there is usually someone around who can help. And if they get over their shyness then you'll find you have a friend for life.
Chengdu
Chengdu is the capital and the likely starting point for any adventure into the interior and is well connected by air and rail. It doesn't seem to have the same chaotic bustle as other Chinese cities, in part because it is fairly low level and spread out. But the skyline is changing and apartments and office blocks are now catching up with the huge statue of Chairman Mao that presides over the city.
There is not a huge amount to do but Chengdu is an interesting place to spend a few days, either exploring some of the more traditional back streets or just lying around in the parks. The nightlife is standard Chinese fare with westernised bars, karaoke and dodgy nightclubs. Its good fun though and the locals are not shy of coming up and grilling you on every aspect of your life.
The Giant Panda breeding research base in Chengdu has a number of pandas in captivity. The facility is first rate and you can really get in close. The pandas are pretty laid back, they just sit there eating bamboo. Interestingly, they also eat meat but it is hard to picture them actually catching anything that moves.
Sichuan is home to one of the last natural habitats in which Pandas live, though numbers are dwindling and their future is uncertain. The government is making significant efforts to improve this situation, though at times they can go a bit far. Two men found with Panda skins were executed in 1990.
Sichuan has fantastic cuisine and no trip is complete without a traditional hot-pot. This DIY meal involves sitting around a pot of hot soup broth cooking your own foods as you go. The ingredients vary, but are likely to include thinly sliced meats, seafood and vegetables.
The soup broth ingredients includes some hardcore spices and for the first timer can be a mildly painful experience. It takes a couple of hours to do it properly and can involve drinking a lot of cheap beer, but it's just about worth it in the end. Of course if you just want a quick spicy hit, then stop off at one of the street side hotpots for a skewer or two.
Around Chengdu
For me Sichuan really comes to life when you get out of the cities and venture into the rugged mountainous countryside. You don't need to venture far from Chengdu to find some interesting places to visit. Emei Shan is a sacred Buddhist mountain, scattered with monasteries. The area is quite extensive so allow a few days to do some exploring. It can get quite busy and you'll never be too far from someone hawking commemorative T-Shirts or a bottle of Coke, but it's still possible to get away from the crowds and be at one with nature.
Some of the monasteries allow you to stay overnight and there are a number of guest houses along the routes. The area is overseen by some very demanding monkeys; they are well adept at stealing things from you and begging for treats, its probably worth bribing a few of them or they can turn nasty.
Nearby is a place called Leshan, which is home to the largest Buddha statue in the world. The Grand Buddha is carved out of the side of a cliff and stands 71m high and is an impressive sight as its overlooks the river below.
To the North
North from Chengdu takes you to the towards the Qinling mountains. Located in this area is the Jiuzhaigou National Park. It's an increasingly popular tourist destination known throughout China. The remoteness has been tamed somewhat, the park itself is being slowly changed from a free-roaming lose-yourself-in-nature area to a packaged tourist experience with bus tours, hotels, walkways and set attractions. Nevertheless it's a stunning area surrounded by mountains with dense forested valleys that are overrun with rivers, lakes and waterfalls. The water has a surreal beauty, due to a high concentration of Calcium, which colours the water in shades of turquoise and makes it very clear.
The road to the north snakes through alpine scenery scarred by industrial developments. I have to remember that the factories have brought jobs and wealth into what was a very poor area. A landslide had closed the road to Jiuzhaigou, so we stopped in Songpan. The town itself is a little nondescript. One of the primary activities for tourists is to take a horse trek into the surrounding countryside. We negotiated with the local horse-trip mafia a four-day trek to Ice Mountain for £5 a day - it was a steal. They give you a horse, carry your luggage, erect your tent, cook your food and take you through some astounding terrain.
It's hard not to feel a little poetic about a horse trek into remote valleys, where only a scattering of farms and Buddhist temples exist. But be warned, it's a trip without a safety net. You could potentially be days away from any westernised medical assistance and there are some real dangers in mountains of this size. Although it feels great to be away from the safe, packaged feeling of a western tourist excursion, you just need make sure you're well prepared.
We stopped at a plateau of around 5000m, the guides took our horses back to the camp and we were ill prepared for the environment. After failing to climb the 6500m peak, which our guides assured us we could do, we were surrounded by snow, suffering a little from the altitude, had no map, no food and only a vague idea of how to get back to camp. Fortunately we found our way and on reflection it was a good experience and lesson learnt.
Sichuan-Tibet Highway
Heading west from Chengdu is the Sichuan-Tibet highway, an ancient road that rises up to the Tibetan plateau. As a general rule, the further you go, the worse the road quality. I took this road but instead of going on to Tibet I went to Yunnan.
This takes four full days on a bus so try to string it out for at least a week to avoid it getting too gruelling. The roads are cut into the side of valleys and at points you'll wish they'd cut a bit further.
Fortunately there are some considerate drivers and on particular sketchy bits they'll let you out to walk while they tip-toe the bus along. It's no wonder some of them like a drink.
Kangding is the first stopover, an interesting place with a mixture of Buddhist temples, a catholic church and traditional Chinese houses interspersed with 'breeze block' style apartments. At night it really comes to life with a myriad of street stalls, I got my first taste of spicy Yak kebab, which was cheap as chips (well a lot cheaper actually).
From this point, the road climbs up to the Tibetan plateau; mainly Tibetans inhabit the area so the Buddhist influence is everywhere. It also has a Wild West feeling, with Chinese-style cowboys, nomadic farmers and endless steppe. The cowboys ride around on motorbikes or horses, no guns but lots of swords. When I tried to have a closer look at one guy's sword, he stood back immediately, hand on hilt. I guess it's not a novelty item out here.
Litang is a small town surrounded by grasslands and at over 4000m, the lack of oxygen here makes everything hard work. It can take a couple of days for your body to acclimatise. Accommodation is quite basic. The guesthouse I stayed at advertised that it had a washroom, which ended up being a hose-pipe with a supply of cold water.
The main monastery here dates back to the fifteenth century. It's a fascinating place with worshippers in trance like states circling prayer wheels and chanting mantras. It has a busy Lamasery with teenage boys all learning to recite ancient scripture. I also caught a glimpse of a small construction site with a dozen or so women hauling stone up ladders, digging holes, laying bricks, and not a bloke in sight. It was all quite other-worldly.
With the right mindset, exploring Sichuan can be a genuinely rewarding experience. If you find yourself outside the main cities, the locals will take an interest, and will approach to practise their English, invite you to their homes and just try to connect with you. This makes Sichuan such a special place.
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