There are three ways to get to Timbuktu—road, river and air. The most interesting by far is to travel in a motorized pinasse down the Niger River. The adventure starts in the "port" of Konna in Mali. Camping equipment, cooking and food supplies are loaded on board along with the luggage. The gangplank is just that, a plank of wood.
The pinasse is a locally made wooden boat with a woven mat roof providing protection from the sun. The front three-quarters is the seating area with padded cushions and more legroom than on most airplanes. The rest of the boat contains a cooking area, the "engine room" and, at the very rear, the outhouse.
The only means of moving around is on a foot wide catwalk, which runs along the outside. After manipulating oneself up on the side, it is imperative to hold onto the bamboo poles tied to the roof matting before beginning the crab-like shuffle to the back.
Life Aboard
Sometimes the water can be rough and, while being told, "If you fall in, you can walk to the nearest shore" is reassuring, it would not be anyone's first choice. The "bathroom" door was tricky to open and by the end of the trip had been completely removed from the second pinasse. Once inside, no one shut the door. Who was going to see you?
Since it's a two and a half-day trip at best, the cook prepares breakfast and lunch on board. The two boats get as close together as possible while food and kettles of boiling water are passed between them. Meals are simple with baguettes, jam, Nutella and the always present "Laughing Cow" cheese for breakfast. Assorted canned fish is added at lunch. The guide walked around the edge pouring boiling water into our mugs for tea or coffee. It was watermelon season and we always had dessert.
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Greetings On The Niger
Boating on the Niger is a scenic trip. There's always grass and low trees and a myriad of birds to identify. The amazing turquoise-breasted Eurasian roller, the African herrier, the cattle egret, flocks of yellow bishops swooping up and down and the blue and white kingfishers near their nests on the riverbanks are just a few.
Children from the mud villages lined the shores waving and shouting a greeting. Since they have no word for "foreigner," the closest translation the guide could give was "whitey," relating to our skin color. Women stopped pounding their millet to wave, fishermen in their pirogues waved never breaking their stroke.
Close to shore, fishermen throw their nets into the water hoping to catch a Nile perch but usually they snag catfish. Ever so often motorized pumps are installed to carry water inland to flood the rice fields. Bambara farmers stand waist deep harvesting rice. How many of them could be infected by the Guinea worm, a common parasite there?
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When we passed, everyone was heading for home. Fishermen paddling their dugout called "Ca Va?" It was important to reach the campsite by dusk. Tents and the cooking area have to be set up before the sun sets. Dinner is always wonderful soup, baguettes, a meat dish and dessert. Under the stars and in good company, it tastes delicious.
The tents are netted at the top making it easy to lie in bed and watch the stars before falling asleep. It had been a good rainy season and the river was high. Unfortunately for us, the hippos had moved inland to the shallower ponds. It's hard to imagine that in the dry season it's possible to drive across Lake Debu.
The Slow Death Of The 'Mother'
Niger means "mother of the river" or "lifeblood" or "mother" depending on the tribe. They have always respected its importance. The Sahara desert is slowly moving into the Niger and will eventually choke off this life source. While there are conferences and international "talks," nothing constructive is happening. Surely, something needs to be done now, someone needs to take charge now, but the age-old question is "Who?"
Feeds